On Mexican time

What time will you be here?  It is an innocent question.  The answer controls the rhythm of our days.  

Internet disconnected on Friday July 5th

The answers always sound sincere:  twenty minutes, or give me five minutes and I’ll be there.  Or mañana, I will be there early tomorrow morning.  We wait for friends to arrive.  We wait for electricians, and repairmen.  We are naively convinced that the person will arrive at the time he or she said.  

Eventually we realized that the word mañana doesn’t always mean tomorrow.  It can mean, soon, or later, or tomorrow depending on the situation and the person.  On the other hand mañana, mañana, loosely translates to tomorrow in the morning, can be a polite way of saying – it’s not going to happen, ever!

This week we have been without internet for a few days, just our house and our neighbours’ house. The electrical utility company CFE changed out a power pole last week.  On Friday the internet provider, Cablemas, instructed the workers to move the internet lines over to the new pole.  The cable was disconnected and dropped on the ground.  Around lunch-time on Friday the CFE bucket truck and linesmen left.  The electricity was functioning, but not the internet.

One of our many long periods of waiting for a parade

Our neighbours depend on the internet for their on-line work; we use it for telephone, emails, news, and amusement.  They have phoned Cablemas every day asking: when will the repairs happen?  Lawrie and I visited the Cablemas office a few times, asking: when?  

The polite smiling answer varied: Sunday morning, later on Monday, or Tuesday afternoon, or Wednesday morning.  This is day six!  And still no sign of the repair crew.  Maybe we should pay our Cablemas bill on Mexican time – mañana, mañana.

Family and friends waiting on a parade

Another frequent question is: What time does it start?  Now there’s a loaded question.  As well-trained polite Canadians we arrive at the scheduled start time.  If an invitation says it starts at seven in the evening, we are there at seven in the evening.  If the parade is scheduled to start at three-thirty in the afternoon, we are there with expectant smiles on our faces, cameras ready and waiting.  Waiting, waiting, waiting.  We have lingered on a sidewalk, or relaxed in our air conditioned car for up to three hours before the anticipated parade finally gets underway.  Fortunately a supply of cold beer is always at hand to pass the time more pleasantly. 

Eight months - and finally a renewal for immigrant visa

But our most frustrating example of Mexican-time happened with the annual renewal of my FM3 visa, allowing me to remain in Mexico year-around.  The renewal date was October 31^st 2012.  

Our lawyer friend, Tony Poot, handles the renewal for us every year.  It’s just easier that way; except this time.  Mexico City made a mistake on the FM3, registering me as a working resident.  

To rectify the mistake took an excruciating eight months, with our lawyer visiting the Cancun Immigration office every two weeks, hearing the same excuses.  Come back next week.  Come back next Monday.  Next Friday.  We are too busy.  We have a lot of applications to process.  And on and on.  Finally on June 26^th the visa was processed with a renewal date of - you guessed it, October 31^st 2013.   The immigration laws have recently changed and the next visa is a Permanent Resident’s card good for up to ten years.    Sign me up!

Wednesday July 10th - internet!

As a follow up to our internet problem, we once again stopped by the Cablemas office at mid-day on Wednesday.  Lawrie popped in to chat to Delores, who handles payments, repairs, and complaints.  When will the internet be fixed?  He asked.   She was embarrassed.  She didn’t know it still hadn’t been repaired.  Ten minutes.  She promised.  And it was! 

Living on Mexican time, is frustrating, and it is fun.  Frustrating when we need service but the person or the company is on Mexican time.  Fun when we don’t really care because we are retired, and living in paradise. 

Hasta Luego          
Lynda and Lawrie

What a Beautiful Noise!

By Neil Diamond
What a beautiful noise   Comin' up from the street
Got a beautiful sound     It's got a beautiful beat

A man on a motorcycle slowly cruises past our house – he is singing a Spanish love song at the top of his voice, oblivious that we are eavesdropping from our upper floor deck.  The sound is beautiful, haunting.  We frequently perch on this street-side deck with our feet resting on the aluminum railings, our toes wiggling a hello to passing friends.  With a morning cup of coffee or an evening glass of wine in hand we are watching and listening to locals. 

 

 We are voyeurs!

This island thrives on noise, and music, and laughter. Early in the morning the honking of a bicycle horn lets us know the tortilla vendor has started his route, followed by the whine of motorcycles as they whiz past depositing teenagers at the college, and still later we hear the squeal of brakes, slamming of car doors and laughter as kindergarten students arrive at school. 

 

 

Walk through any neighbourhood and you will hear the overhead noise of a rooftop alarm system, the family dog, peering over the edge barking at anything or anyone that infringes on his territory.

As the day progresses the sounds change. 

Every vendor or delivery person has their own signal to let customers know they are nearby.  Want freshly squeezed orange juice?  Just wait for the beep-beep of the moto horn outside your door. 

 

Need a 20L bottle of agua purificada?  Two blasts from a truck’s horn and the squeak of the suspension – and you know the Cristal delivery truck has arrived. 

The deliverymen for the small portable bottles of propane have a recorded song that reverberates from a speaker; Zeta Zeta, Zeta gas. 

 

The cheese salesman sings a short refrain offering queso queso as he balances the large wheel of cheese on his head.  The knife-sharpener tootles a set of Pan Pipes trudging through the various neighbourhoods. 

 

Businesses like Super X-Press and Chedraui hire car-and-drivers with loud speakers to cruise the island advertising the weekly specials.  The municipality uses a similar method for advising islanders of upcoming important public events. 

 

The really intriguing part of this boisterous culture is the number of parades that take place annually, complete with music, costumes, decorated floats, and hundreds of marching participants. 

We have many photos of Christmas parades, the Night of the Kings, Carnival parades that happen nightly for a week, political parades, Independence Day, Revolution Day, cowboys riding to the bull fight-ring, caged lions and tigers complete with loud music advertising the circus, numerous religious celebrations, and national holidays.  

 

 

 

 

Then added on top of the parades are the five or maybe six annual fishing tournaments, and a music festival that attracts islanders and visitors alike – the noise level just keeps increasing.

And then there are times when the noise is a bit too much; the over-loaded mufflerless dump trucks racing to catch the last car ferry off of the island, the poorly maintained city garbage trucks that blat and grind and wheeze along the roads like old men struggling with a bad case of gas. 

 

Some businesses, like Farmacias Similares, seem to have a corporate policy of annoying the general public with exceptionally loud music piped outside for everyone to enjoy from early afternoon until late at night.  Even our favourite store, Chedraui Super Store, has earsplittingly loud music blasting from the stereos, competing with in-store music, announcements of today’s specials, or requests for a manager to call the service desk.     Oh joy!

 

 

The ocean-side view at our island home.

We grew up in a relatively quiet country, Canada, where noise is quite strictly regulated.  We have lived on country acreages, in rural homes, and in a converted warehouse-condo located on Beatty Street in Vancouver BC.  Living here is similar to residing downtown in a big city where the ambient noise level is ever-present, but with a lot fewer people creating the noise - that beautiful noise. 

 

When it all becomes too much for us we can retreat to the ocean-side of the house and listen to our favourite noise of all; the sound of waves sliding in from the Caribbean Sea, swooshing up onto the beach, slowly receding and gently pulling the white sand back into the ocean.    

 

Ah! Joy!

 

 

Festival Week on Isla Mujeres

Parade March 2011

Sequins, balloons, skimpy costumes, tropical-coloured feathers and the thumping beat of salsa music – it is Carnival time in Mexico.  We love this time of year, with 5 days of impromptu parades and dance competitions all over the island.  Traffic stops!  All the dancers pile out of a friend’s pickup and the music cranks up! 



Got the moves!



The group will do a fifteen minute routine, pile back into the pickup and head off to the next stop.  Everyone from the smallest kindergarten kid to the oldest grandmother knows the moves. 

This year we have two big events overlapping during the next eight days.  First up is the 3rd Annual Island Time Fishing Tournament and Country Music Festival starting Tuesday February 14th and ending Saturday February 18th.  Check the website for the details http://www.islandtimefishingfestival.com/  This fabulous event features performances by music legends such as Phil Vassar, Craig Wiseman, Dallas Davidson, Rodney Clawson, Brett James, Tim Nichols, Tim Norman, Jon Stone and EG Kight.  

Phil Vassar February 2011 at Jax Bar & Grill

Then starting Friday February 17th the kick-off for Carnival starts with the Coronation of the various kings and queens, leading into an-all night party and dance that will continue until dawn. 

Here are some of the events listed on Tourism Isla FaceBook page:

Friday February 17th - 8:30 p.m. Coronation ceremony for kings and queens starting with the youngest and working up to the famous.

Friday February 17th - 11:30 p.m. Coronation dance continues until dawn



Queen and King of Carnival 2010



Saturday February 18th - noon to 5:00 p.m. music and activities on the public beach near Jax's Bar and Grill

Saturday February 18th - 5:00 p.m. start of 1st parade near Jax Bar and Grill at the north end of the island, near the fisherman's statue.

Saturday February 18th - 8:00 p.m. Noche de Fantasia at the Municipal Plaza in Centro

Saturday February 18th - 11:00 p.m. to dawn, dance at the Municipal Plaza

Sunday February 19th - noon to 5:00 p.m. music and activities on the public beach near Jax Bar and Grill

Sunday February 19th - 5:00 p.m. 2nd parade same route, same time  -  probably featuring different dance groups as each group must stop and perform for judges at the reviewing stands

Sunday February 19th - 8:00 p.m. Noche de Cubano in Centre, Dance competitions

Sunday February 19th - 11:00 p.m. Presentation de Show in Centre

Carnival Parade March 2011

Monday February 20th - a number of impromptu dance demonstrations at various locations on Isla  

Monday February 20th - Noche Regional Caribena, 8:00 p.m. dancing and 10:00 p.m. comedy.

Tuesday February 21st - 5:00 p.m. 3rd parade same route, same time  -  probably featuring different dance groups as each group must stop and perform for judges at the reviewing stands which can make for a very slow, but interesting parade.



Tuesday February 21st - in the afternoon Negrada,  Black Face and different costumes for dancers gathering at Municipal hall around 9:00 p.m.

Grande Finale Tuesday February 21st - 11:30 p.m. church services, and around midnight burning of the effigy of Juan de Carnaval in Centre



Carnival Parade March 2011



You may have noticed I use the words "approximately" and "around" when listing starting times.  The times are just a suggestion! 

This is Mexico.  The events are fabulous, however they seldom start on time. 

Relax.  Enjoy the sounds, sights, smells. 

Isn't that why you are here?





Día de la Revolución November 20th

Rat-a-tat-tat, blam, blam, bang, tootle-toot, and bang again! 

High School Band in Día de la Revolución parade

A dozen or so high school students have been practicing with drums and bugles, every day in the basketball court across the street from our house, practicing for the Día de la Revolución parade last Sunday.  This group is much improved over last year's group but, oh my, listening to the discordant clatter and crash for two hours every day increased our need for aspirin, or Tylenol, or whiskey, or anything to obliterate the headache.  They're a good bunch of kids, just lacking musical skills at the moment.  (But, who am I to complain?  I have been tossed out of community choirs and school bands several times for having absolutely no ear for music.)

Apparently this is a very serious event for these ladies!

The Day of the Revolution (Día de la Revolución) is celebrated annually in Mexico on November 20th.  It is the anniversary of the 1910 start of the popular movement leading to the overthrow of dictator José de la Cruz Porfirio Díaz Mori after 34 years of military rule.  The revolution ushered in a decade of civil war which ultimately led to the creation of the Mexico’s constitution in 1917. 

To be honest, we still get the Independence Day September 16th 1810, and Day of the Revolution November 20th 1910 confused.  They are both very important holidays in Mexico - we just have trouble keeping them straight.

Take my picture, take my picture!!!!

On Sunday the parade was scheduled to start at eight in the morning instead of the usual nine o'clock, due to the large number of groups that expressed interest in participating.  The Parade Marshall was expecting several of the dance troupes from the 6th Annual Caribbean Festival to join the parade.  In true island-style, I meandered over to the designated reviewing stand around eight twenty in the morning, thinking I had at least an hour or more to wait until the parade appeared.  Much to my surprise the first groups were just arriving at the reviewing stand!  The parade had apparently started on time.  Amazing! 

While I was in the process of shooting a bazillion photos of the various marching contingents with my new camera, I bumped into Janet Davison.  (Both Dave Davison, and Lawrie were at home, preferring to indulge in another cup of coffee, rather than watching the parade.)  Janet and I walked up and down the route clicking lots of photos, but never did see any of the dance troupes - so I assume that they cancelled at the last minute. 



Another part of the high school group



I did however see lots of island friends, and their various off-spring.  I tried to take photos of any of the kids that I recognized.  Some of the kids were camera-shy, other hammed it up as soon as they saw me pointing a camera at them. 

And the high school band who were driving us nuts all week with their practice sessions, well they looked and sounded pretty darn good. 

Random thoughts:

·         Caribe on Canvas:

Thursday night Brad and Tiffany of Barlito's on Hidalgo Avenue hosted a showcase for "Caribe on Canvas."  The art work is created by Mark C., from his photos which he tweaks with a computer to resemble paintings, and then prints on canvas.  The effect is very attractive. 

Caribe on Canvas, the creator Mark C.





Viva Mexico! Mexican Independence Day September 16th

The sizzling hot food from the street vendors, washed down with glasses of fresh fruit juice, or icy cold beer, kids running free in the town square, music and laughter, flags and banners, red white and green bunting draped on buildings, and soon, the big finale featuring fireworks.  A great way to celebrate Mexican Independence Day.



Flotilla taking the Virgin to Isla Contoy

The week started quietly with the annual Virgin of Charity of Cobre's Procession on Saturday September 10^th.  The event began at eight in the morning with the blessing of the statue of the Virgin Mary at the church in the town square.  The beautiful sounds of the parishioners praying ricocheted off the buildings as the crowd followed the procession of priest and docents, from the church onto a flotilla of boats.  The flotilla then headed out to Isla Contoy where the Virgin of Charity will reside for six months in a small chapel to protect the fishermen for the winter fishing season.  There were many small panga-style fishing boats in the flotilla plus an UltraMar water taxi, two large tour boats, a Coast Guard cruiser, and a Navy vessel - all overflowing with the families and friends of the fishermen.
  

Grandmothers' Association in Parade

Late on Thursday evening, September 15^th was the local re-enactment of the day of Grito de Delores.  The Grito de Dolores ("Cry of Dolores") was the battle cry of the Mexican War of Independence, uttered by Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a Roman Catholic priest from the small town of Dolores, near Guanajuato.  

Just before midnight on September 15 ^th 1810, Hidalgo ordered the church bells to be rung and he gathered his congregation.  Hidalgo is believed to have cried: "Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe, death to bad government, and death to the Spaniards!"   Mexico's independence wasn’t officially recognized by the Spanish crown until September 27, 1821 - after the officials had completely tired of the ongoing war.



Independence Day Parade

Some of other entertaining Independence Day activities included the Viva Mexico buffet dinner at Chuuk Kay Restaurante from six until ten in the evening on Thursday September 15th. 

And there is traditionally a great parade, usually along Medina Avenue in the Centro, on September 16th around nine in the morning. 

More or less. (Más o menos.) The parade will start soon, in five minutes.  It's Mexico - good things happen but at a slower pace. 

Independence Day Parade