Return to Paradise, Isla Mujeres

My favourite - Bougainvillea flowers.

The warm, humid air, filled with the scent of tropical flowers and lush vegetation, greeted me at Cancun Airport, making me feel as though I was returning home, even if only for a few weeks.

On December 23, 2019, fifteen months after Lawrie’s passing, Sparky and I moved from Isla Mujeres to the historic city of San Miguel de Allende, nestled high in the mountains north of Mexico City. 

Known as a refuge for artists and writers, I had planned to live in San Miguel for at least ten years, but the pandemic changed those plans.

Ultramar passenger ferry.

Starting in mid-March 2020, I received several emails from the Canadian government urging me to return to Canada because borders were closing and all air travel was being suspended. The emails said the government wouldn’t be able to ‘rescue’ any remaining citizens once the lockdown was in effect. I was on my own in an unfamiliar city, with no support system. If I became ill, Sparky would have been at risk. We flew back to Canada on March 20, 2020.

This trip marked my first return to Mexico since the pandemic. As we neared Cancun airport, my seatmate, a WestJet employee, noted that the small gold emblem on the front of my Canadian passport allowed me to use the expedited customs line. With nothing to declare in my small carry-on, I cleared customs smoothly.

Gone were the customs and immigration forms that had to be filled out on the airplane after scrambling to find a working pen at the bottom of my purse. 

Gone were the massive lines at the luggage scanners, where each bag was rechecked before the owners left the security area.

Gone was the red-light, green-light lottery system that randomly (we were told) selected who would have their bags searched. That system was highlighted in an amusing illustration by my creative partner, Diego Medina, in The Adventures of Thomas the Cat: Las Aventuras de Tomás el Gato. It's a bilingual children's book that documents our cat Thomas's move to Mexico in 2007.

First photo - across from the Navy base.

Outside of Terminal 4, I quickly found the kiosk for my pre-arranged shuttle, and then we headed to the Ultramar passenger ferry. In previous years, when Lawrie and I returned from adventures abroad to our home on Isla Mujeres, we often took the inexpensive ADO bus from the airport to the bus terminal, then a local taxi to the Ultramar docks. This time, I wanted to be pampered, so I used a familiar shuttle service that included a round-trip ticket for the passenger ferry.

Arriving on Isla, I joined the line at the taxi stand and asked the driver how much it would cost to take me to my friend’s home near Maria’s Kin Kan. He quoted a price I expected, and I hopped in.

Punta Sur, a favourite spot for Sparky & I

For the next 16 days, I reconnected with many pals: permanent residents, part-timers, snowbirds, close friends from our old neighbourhood, and island friends whose great-great-grandparents had been born on Isla. We laughed, ate, shared a bottle or two of wine, and enjoyed the warmth of good friends and new acquaintances.

Different combinations of friends and I ate at several new-to-me restaurants, including the Isla Brewing Beer Garden, owned and operated by our friends Jeff, Rhett, and Anya McGahee.

Carnaval 2026. 

I searched for the tastiest tacos at Blue Ballyhoo, El Rancho, Loretta’s, Sabor de México, El Charco, also known as Deisy and Raul’s, Ulan Eatery, and Marina Bartolomé. We enjoyed tasty Italian dishes at De Nuccio’s. My friend Michelle and I dined at Rosa Sirena’s, where Debbie Crinigan de Chacon gave me a warm welcome-home hug.

The Medina family, Freddy, Eva, Diego, and Danaee, plus Carol Lawler and her cute pooch, Paloma, hosted breakfast at Sabor de México twice. On the morning of my birthday breakfast, a massive three-layer cake with a volcanic sparkler appeared at our table. Freddy and I served everyone in the restaurant a piece of cake and had plenty left over for the staff.

With permission from the owners of our beachfront home, I spread some of Sparky’s ashes on the sand. Sparky has many of his four-legged pals to keep him company: Thomas the Cat, Princess Chica, Missy, and Odd the Dog. And a little bit of his very best friend, Lawrie.

Sabor de Mexico.

On Isla, I zipped around in a rental golf cart, photographing favorite spots and comparing the photos with earlier images. I watched the always entertaining Carnaval parade. Michelle and I popped in to visit longtime friends Neil and Abbey Fox at Sac Bajo. 

My last night on Isla was spent at a successful fundraiser at my friend’s home, raising money for several worthy island causes.

Playa Norte, North Beach.

Usually, when someone has been on a tropical vacation, they come home with a tan. I am still a ghostly white. In sixteen days, I never once sat on the beach! (I did take a couple of photos of Playa Norte.) Neither Lawrie nor I were sunworshippers, even when we lived full-time on Isla Mujeres.

So, what had changed in six years? A lot. And nothing at all. There are more houses, more restaurants, more stores selling souvenir tat, and more golf carts buzzing around, but essentially, it is still Isla. 

The islanders are kind and generous. The food is delicious. The weather is perfect for this chilly Canadian. The scenery is gorgeous. Isla Mujeres is still very dear to me.

This trip was a mix of happy tears and heart-wrenching memories of my adventurous and romantic life with Lawrie. But I am glad I went. It was enjoyable to reconnect with some of my amazing pals. 

I missed seeing a few folks, but I am planning to return this winter. See you then! 

Cheers, Lynda

Top 100 Canadian Women Authors, Top 40 Mexico guides (But it's a memoir more than a guidebook.)

The humble beginnings and true-life tale of Sparky, hero of the Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Chapter 4, 

December 2013

Oh no, the cat-doctor

“We should take him to the veterinarian to be checked out,” the lady said. “He could have medical problems that need to be treated.”

I’d just been bathed with nice-smelling stuff, and the lady was drying my soft, clean fur with a fluffy towel. It felt good. I wasn’t sure what the man and woman were talking about. I hoped it wasn’t the cat-doctor. The way Tommy smirked when he said that name terrified me.

“I’ll come with you,” he said. “He may get frightened riding in a vehicle.”

“That would be helpful since we don’t have a harness for him yet.” The lady tidied up the towels and put away the bottles of liquids that she had used to wash me. “They don’t make appointments, so we may have to wait a bit, but it’s important.”

“I agree.”

“Okay, let’s go,” she said. She picked me up and carefully carried me outside to a funny little vehicle that didn’t have any doors, a proper windshield, or much of anything. She put me on her lap and said, “We have to leave room for our golf cart driver.”

I wanted to tell them I understood. We were going for a drive in a carrito de golf. I’d seen many golf carts, but I’d never ridden in one. My previous owner had a moto, a scooter, and I would stand in the footwell while the man drove; sometimes another human friend rode with us.

This man backed the little vehicle out onto the street and turned south. We passed a few of my regular places where I usually scrounge for food. I hadn’t crossed this street since my accident a year ago. When I was younger and didn’t know that the roads were dangerous for animals, a car hit me on my rump. I have a limp, and when I’m tired, I lift my right hind leg and run on three legs.

Our drive was very short, and I had fun riding in the carrito de golf, snuggled between two people who seemed to like me. We parked in front of a building with many brightly painted images of dogs and cats.

“The memory wall is filling up,” the woman said, nodding towards the paintings.

“Yes, it’s a nice way to help support the veterinary clinic and remember cherished pets,” the man agreed.

I looked at the wall. There were numerous pretty paintings of dogs and cats, but I could smell fear. Many sick and frightened pets came to this building.

Oh no! This had to be the evil cat-doctor that Tommy had warned me about.

I started to shake and tremble.

Isla Mujeres Mysteries

OR 

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

A surprise gift!

The humble beginnings and true-life tale of Sparky, hero of the Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

 

Chapter 3 December 2013

Thomas King of the Beach

A little while later, the woman came to check on me. She leaned over and looked under the sofa. “Are you okay, Sparky?”

I grinned and fluttered the tip of my tail.

“Well, we need to find some medication for those ticks and fleas. Doggies and kitties can get very sick from bug bites,” she straightened up. “I’ll be back soon.”

A short time later, the lady returned, holding a small box. “Let’s see if you’ll eat this.” She opened the box and placed a dark, round object in front of my nose.

I sniffed it suspiciously and turned my head away. No. Not going to eat that thing, I thought. Too many of my hungry friends had gobbled up bad things and gotten sick.

“Hmm. Okay, let’s try something else.” She picked up the brown object and walked back into the house.

Soon she returned with another plate with just a bit of food. I was still full, but after living on my own for a while, I wasn’t going to turn down an offer of delicious chow. If I refused to eat, this might be the last meal she’d offer me.

I ate everything, and I was so full I burped. I didn’t yet know how to say "perdóneme," excuse me, in her language, so I lay back down for another siesta. Pretty soon, I could feel the nasty biting bugs letting go and dropping off my skin. It was a miracle.

When I woke up a little later, the grey cat strolled over to me. He was exactly my size and had big muscles like me. His long, thick fur made him look massive. His fierce yellow eyes studied me carefully.

“I know you have been coming into my house while your friend was looking after Chica and me for three weeks,” he said, staring at me with those enormous eyes. “I never properly introduced myself because I thought you would move on when my humans returned. My full name is Thomas the Cat, but you may call me Tommy.”

“Mucho gusto, Tómas,” I politely replied in Spanish, telling him I was pleased to meet him.

“As the oldest animal in this house, my humans asked my permission to adopt you,” he added, arching an eyebrow meaningfully at me. “I said yes, as long as you are well-behaved.”

“Gracias, Tómas,” I thanked him. “I promise, I’ll be good.”

“You’re welcome to live here as long as you don’t hurt or chase either Princess Chica or me.” He stretched out one of his massive front paws and flexed his toes so that I could see his very long and sharp claws.

Wow! Scary!

“These are my murder-mittens. If you try to hurt us, I will scrape them across your tender nose,” he said.

“I won’t bother you,” I truthfully promised.

“Good,” Tommy nodded and said, “then we can be friends.” He flicked his tail and jumped lightly onto the sofa cushions. “When you’re clean, our humans will let you sleep on the furniture, too.”

“Should I clean my fur in the ocean?” I asked. “I really want these people to like me.”

“No, just wait. The lady will bathe you, don’t get upset. It won’t hurt.” Tommy said. He settled into what looked like a nice, comfy position, put his head down on his front paws, then closed his eyes.

“Does she wash you when you get dirty?” I asked.

Tommy opened one eye and glared at me. “Don’t be ridiculous. Cats are self-cleaning. We lick our fur and keep ourselves very tidy.”

I tried to turn and lick my spine like a cat, but my body wouldn’t twist all the way around. “I wish I could be self-cleaning, too,” I muttered quietly, trying hard not to bother Tommy again.

Without opening his eyes, he said, “She'll take you to the cat-doctor soon.”

“The cat-doctor! What’s that?” I asked.

“You’ll see,” he replied.

I’m pretty sure he was smirking when he fell asleep.

~

A surprise gift - e-book and paperback

Isla Mujeres Mysteries

OR 

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The humble beginnings and true-life tale of Sparky, hero of the Isla Mujeres Mystery Series: Gotcha Day!

 

Chapter 2: December 2013

That smells so good!

A few weeks later, I was exploring the beach, looking for something to put in my tummy. I caught the delicious scent of chicken cooking, and I followed my nose. The smell took me back to the nice white house on the beach and toward the kind man.

I was about to step inside the house when I noticed that a woman with short, curly hair was preparing the food. She wasn’t the friend who had been feeding me.

I was a little afraid, but I was so very hungry I had to take the risk. I lay down on a mat under the kitchen table and politely waited for the new woman to notice me. Please don’t chase me away.

The woman finally saw me and made a funny noise, “Hmph!” She pointed at the smaller cat and said, “Well, that’s Chica,” then pointed at the larger one. “This is Thomas, and who are you?” tilting her head like a puzzled dog.

I swished my short, bristly tail back and forth on the tile floor. I tried to answer her, “guau-guau, jau-jau.” It roughly translates to “woof-woof, ruff-ruff,” but she didn’t understand.

She laughed and picked up a square black object from the kitchen counter, then started talking to it. “So. A dog?”

I could hear the man’s happy voice coming from the black thing, “Yeah, his name is Sparky, and he’s yours. I’m returning to Japan, and I can’t take him with me.”

Chuckling at the man's words, she put the device back on the kitchen counter. She looked over at a bald man who was quietly sitting at the table. “This is Sparky, and he’s now our responsibility.”

Her laughter gave me hope. Maybe she wouldn’t yell at me or shoo me away.

The man leaned back in his chair so that he could see me hiding under the table. He smiled at me and said, “Hola, Sparky, you look hungry. I’m sure we have enough food to feed you, too.”

“Of course, we do,” the curly-haired woman said, with another chuckle.

She took three little white plates from a cupboard. She placed one scoop of food on each of two plates and a lot more on the third. I was so happy when she set the larger portion in front of me instead of giving it to the cats. It tasted awesome.

I ate and ate and ate until my tummy bulged, then I carefully scrubbed the plate clean with my tongue. Nearby was a bowl of fresh water, and I lapped up the cool liquid. My belly was full, and I felt so sleepy.

I didn’t want the friendly people to be mad at me for bringing beach sand and creepy crawlies into their home, so I went back outside to the patio. I crawled into a shady spot, under the sofa, where I felt safe.

I snoozed and had a pleasant siesta, a nap. I dreamed about being adopted by these kind people and never worrying again about my next meal or where I could safely sleep. It was a very restful siesta.

Isla Mujeres Mysteries

Or

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

2025 Santa Claus Parade, Penticton BC

 Music, lights, laughter, and candy!

Isla Mujeres Mysteries

Or

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

Sipping our way through the Naramata Bench Winterfest!

Naramata Bench Winterfest 

The Naramata Bench Winterfest webpage urged us to: “Join us for exclusive winery, cidery, distillery and brewery tastings set against a backdrop of dazzling Christmas lights and decorations. Enjoy special events and unique holiday shopping. Warm up by the fire pits, savour seasonal cuisine, and create unforgettable memories in one of British Columbia’s most scenic wine regions.”

I invited two friends, Stacey and Kyla Daman-Willems, to join me. I had intended to be the sober designated driver, but Kyla said she didn’t feel like sampling and would be the DD.

First stop, Deep Roots

We picked a handful of choices from the impressive list of 32 participants: Bench 1775, Blackwood, Chain Reaction, D’Angelo, DiSilva, Daydreamer, Deep Roots, Elephant Island, Evolve, Four Shadows, Foxtrot, Hillside, Howling Bluff, Joie, LaFrenz, Lake Breeze, Laughing Stock, Mocojo, Modesta, Moraine, Origin, Red Rooster, Ruby Blues, Therapy, Three Sisters, Tightrope, Township, Upper Bench, Van Westin, Wesbert, Abandoned Rail Brewing, and Creek & Gully Cider.

The aim was to visit places that we hadn’t experienced before. With so many choices, we decided to limit our tastings to red wine and only 6 or 7 wineries. Otherwise, our taste buds would be overwhelmed, and we’d be inebriated.

Sasha, Deep Roots

Our first stop was Deep Roots on Tillar Road. Deep Roots is a family-owned and operated winery perched on the clay cliffs above Okanagan Lake. 

The family has been farming the land around the winery for over 100 years, spanning four generations. Orchards of cherries, pears, apricots, and apples eventually gave way to grapevines in 1998. 

After many years of selling grapes to other wineries, they dove into winemaking, producing their first vintage in 2012, and opened the tasting room in 2014.

At the tasting room, Sasha was fun and informative. I chose a 2022 Cabernet Franc, and as I turned to go, she suggested that we visit Elephant Island next.

Elephant Island, not just fruit wines!

“Elephant Island?” I said, “But they make tree-fruit wines.”

“Not anymore. They have a tasty selection of grape wines, too,” Sonya replied.

As it turns out, they do! With fun names like Naysayer, I Told You, So, and Think Again. 

The humorous wine labels poke fun at concerned friends who were worried about Miranda and Del Halladay’s change in focus.

Elephant Island. 

Elephant Island Winery launched in 1999. Their sister company, Naramata Cider Co., started in 2017. 

The family’s philosophy is to maintain a healthy diversity in the agricultural landscape. 

All of their wines and ciders are made with low-intervention, living fermentation techniques. 

What fruit they don’t grow is grown by farmers whose methods they respect.

I added a bottle of 2019 Meritage to my collection of tasty Naramata Bench wines.

Where should we go next? 

How about Wesbert on Naramata Road? 

Wesbert Winery

The Joubert family, originally from South Africa, founded Wesbert Winery in 2019 and quickly gained a reputation for warm hospitality. 

It’s a popular stop for cyclists and hikers enjoying the KVR Trail.

My taste buds were already getting a bit confused, so I limited myself to one sample.

Then, we decided to stop at one of the original Naramata Bench wineries, Hillside Estate.

Lawrie and I have connections with Hillside.

The old apricot orchard was purchased in 1979 by Bohumir and Vera Klokocka, who had immigrated to the Okanagan Valley from Czechoslovakia. Even though she had no experience, Vera dreamed of growing grapes and creating good wine. In 1984, she and Bohumir pulled out the orchard and planted 3.5 acres of vineyards. The grapevines thrived in the gravelly soil and warm Okanagan sunshine, and Vera’s dream took shape.

In 1989, Hillside, along with Lang Vineyards and Wild Goose, lobbied the Provincial Government to implement the Farmgate Winery Policy. The new policy allowed small vineyards of five acres or less to not only produce wine but also to sell it directly from their premises.

Lynda and Bohumir bottling 1994

When we moved to Sutherland Road, on the bench, Lawrie and I became friends with the Klokockas. We helped with the harvests and bottling while listening to Czechoslovakian music, drinking wine, and eating great food. Vera sold the winery to a Calgary consortium in 1994, which expanded the property and built the existing structure.

In 1998, we sold our craft brewery, Tin Whistle Brewing Company, and I joined the newly expanded Hillside Estate Winery as the office manager. 

Lawrie, harvesting for icewine. 

In 2004, while I was the manager of the Sandman Hotel, Lawrie became the General Manager at Hillside, overseeing the operation of the winery, vineyards, gift shops, distribution, and bistro.

Back to our Winterfest explorations. At Hillside Estate, I purchased a yummy bottle of Bordeaux-style 2018 Mosaic. I am saving it for my 75^th birthday in February. Stacey and Kyla stocked up too! And we were off to our next stop.

La Frenz Winery has been on the Naramata Bench for a long time. 

In 1999, Jeff and Niva Martin purchased the apple orchard and began clearing the land with the help of their daughters, Elise and Jess. 

La Frenz was one of the few wineries that required an appointment, and we felt pressured, so we never visited.

La Frenz Winery

I was pleasantly surprised to discover a standalone wine shop had been added in 2004, allowing aficionados access to the delicious wines without disturbing the family at home. 

I treated myself to a 2022 Syrah. And Stacey made similar choices for their collection.

We decided to do one more stop before calling it a day. Township 7 was our final stop. 

Kyla, outside Township 7 

I know very little about the history of this winery. The parent company began in 2000 in Langley, and the Penticton location opened in 2004. It has changed hands at least once. I believe it is owned by two major investors.

By this time, my taste buds were well and truly done! I left the tasting to Stacey! Back home, I carefully stored my new treasures. More wine tasting will have to wait for next year’s Naramata Bench Winterfest.

Cheers, Lynda

Death in the Vineyards, Okanagan mystery novels!