Isla is Booming!

2015 concrete docks, bigger boats, new signs

Our little paradise here on Isla Mujeres is rapidly changing.  We think it’s great.  The focus has been gradually shifting from a sleepy fishing village to a tourist-based economy with more amenities available for everyone.

Our Presidente Agapito Magaña was ahead of the curve on this.  A great many of the projects he has introduced have the tourism industry front and foremost, from having our beaches designated as the coveted Blue Flag status, to getting Isla Mujeres chosen as a Pueblo Mágico destination in Mexico. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Isla has been frequently mentioned in the news:

Ferry terminal - 2007 Lawrie waiting for friends

TripAdvisor - Top Beaches in Mexico

NBC News – Best Islands to Live On

Travel & Leisure - World’s Best Islands

Islands – Best Islands for Retiring Early

And as you explore the island on a golf cart, you can’t help but notice the construction of new homes, condos, and resorts, including the infilling of vacant lots in the local neighbourhoods.  

2015 Street entrance to the new terminal

On our street, in the last seven years, there have been twelve new houses built, plus several other existing homes have undergone major renovations.  Chris Shannon, Managing Director of Mundaca Real Estate (Isla’s biggest real estate company), told us that it is hard to keep up with the requests to show property.  Their sales team is busy, and it’s a good busy!

At Punta Sam, the continental part of Isla Mujeres, a larger car ferry terminal is under construction.  We haven’t heard what the projected completion date is, but it looks like the project is well underway.  Hopefully, the new facility will have a better system for selling tickets to drivers.  

It is amusing, and unnerving, to wait, and wait, and wait until mere minutes before sailing time to see if you are actually going to be able to get your vehicle on the ferry.  It’s all part of the adventure of living here.

Feb 2015 starting to remove tower 

At the south end of the island, Punta Sur, the large observation tower that was built shortly before, and severely damaged by, Hurricane Wilma in 2005, was finally demolished and removed in February of this year.  The newspaper report said that there were 100 tons (metric tons) of metal to be removed.  The demolition company cut the tower into several slightly more manageable chunks and lowered them to the ground.  
At the present time, there are four modern homes/townhouses being built in the same area.  The removal of that towering menace is certainly a relief to everyone living within its considerable reach, had it broken off and crashed to the ground.

Oct 2015 Four new homes at Punta Sur

Another new project this year was the completion of a new fire hall, next door to the renovated police station and across the street from the soccer fields.  Now the new fire truck has a home out of the weather, and hopefully will last longer than the last vehicle.  The previous vehicle disintegrated into a heap of rust.  As we have often mentioned, living on an island surrounded by warm, salty water creates a huge corrosion and rust problem for anything electronic or mechanical, although for humans, it’s a perfect environment. 

New fire hall and new truck

We know some of you will lament the changes to Isla, remembering the sand-covered streets, the small tiendas (shops), and the slower pace, but change happens, and we can’t go back.  We wouldn’t want to.  We love our large, well-stocked grocery store, the new hospital, a second gas station, the larger passenger ferry terminal, reliable electricity, paved streets and sidewalks.  And the internet – well, it works, most of the time. 

The island people have not changed.  They are still the most welcoming and friendly folks you would ever meet, but now they have more employment opportunities to provide for their families.

Hasta luego, Lawrie, Lynda, Sparky, and Thomas

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Or 

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky 

Going for a Touch Down! Blue Flag Beach, Isla Mujeres, Mexico.

North Beach - Playa Norte

Armed with rakes, shovels, and large black plastic garbage bags, a dozen or so hardworking ladies gather every morning on the public beaches of Isla Mujeres. It's their job to keep the sand clean. They chat, rake, and pick up trash while bopping along to music played via their cell phones, IPODS or MP3 players. Their job is a never-ending task.

Beach cleaning crew

The current municipal administration of Isla Mujeres is working toward a Blue Flag designation for North Beach – Playa Norte. The list of requirements to obtain the coveted blue flag is extensive, and the list is reviewed every year before the status is renewed. For example, a Blue Flag beach must provide full-time life guards, clean public washrooms, garbage containers, strict control of domestic animals using the beaches, clean drinking water, wheelchair accessibility, and frequent water quality sampling – to name just a few of the conditions.

New, vacant, life guard tower 

If you have been down to North Beach recently, you probably have noticed the addition of three lifeguard towers and a big blue tractor-type beach-cleaning machine. The tractor operator sweeps past, sweeping up debris and levelling the sand very early in the morning, before the concession operators set out their loungers and umbrellas for the day.

I often wonder if the machine gathers up the lost necklaces, chains and other items that the metal-detector-wielding beachcombers usually search for. I wouldn't mind a turn driving the tractor. Big machines fascinate me, just ask Lawrie, who in the past has rented fun machines like a 32-foot-high scissor-lift, or a Bob-Cat loader, or a Bush Hog Rotary Cutter, so I could do stuff around our property in Canada.

I want a turn driving this tractor!

However, back on Isla, when our low-to-the-ground dog, Sparky, and I amble along the shoreline, giving him a chance to swim in the calmer water of Playa Norte, I enjoy watching the preparations for obtaining a Blue Flag designation. The addition of clean, public washrooms would be a wonderful thing. It's a bit tricky right now for the crowds of folks who use the beaches. Many of the nearby restaurants are frustrated by the situation and have posted signage: restrooms are for the use of paying customers only. So what do the beach-users do when nature calls? I really don't want to know.

Busy beach!

And yes, I do carry my handy-dandy supply of puppy-poop bags to clean up the beach after Sparky has done his business. 

However, I am sure that under the Blue Flag designation, we will have to find him another place to swim.

But seriously, North Beach is a beautiful area, enjoyed by thousands every month, and a little extra cleanup is a good thing. It's a great place to hang out for the day, people-watching in the shade of a big old palm tree. A cold beverage or two helps the day along as well. Blue Flag or not, it's a beautiful location.

Hasta Luego, Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

PS: When Sparky and I were doing his morning swim/walk, we noticed this.  It is a boat which arrived at North Beach sometime just before dawn, filled with Cuban refugees.  

Cuban refugee boat arrived on North Beach early Sept 12th

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky

Apache Mtz, little of this, and a little of that on Isla Mujeres, Mexico

“How long has your family lived on Isla Mujeres?” I asked. “Forever,” he replied with his huge, infectious grin, “since the beginning, when the first families settled on Isla.”

“I'm curious, what's your real name?”

He smiled again and laughed. “It doesn't matter; no one knows me by that name. I use Apache, because my dad was called Indio. My grandfather gave him the name because, as a little boy, my dad was tough. He never cried, even when strapped with a belt for stowing away on my grandfather's fishing boat instead of going to school. Dad loved fishing; he hated school. My grandfather admired his son's toughness and started calling him Indio as a nickname.”

Indio's name is synonymous with two island businesses. The Indio's Beach Club on the southwest side of the island was a popular place for people to hang out and enjoy a laid-back island experience. Then in 2005, Hurricane Wilma hit the island, leaving a path of destruction through the beach property; the sand shifted over to the Cancun side of the bay, their buildings were damaged, and the golf carts that were stored on the property were destroyed. It was a devastating event for the family.

The other business, Indio's Golf Cart Rentals, was started in 1994. Apache helped out at the family business from the time he was twelve years old. After assessing the hurricane damage in 2005, Indio decided to close the business, but Apache said he was interested in carrying on. He started operations with the four remaining usable golf carts. By 2014, Apache had increased the stock of golf carts to sixteen vehicles by creating a little niche market; they offer 24-hour assistance. If a rental customer needs help, it is only a cell phone call away. Clients are supplied with phone numbers for Adrian, the office manager, who is fluent in English.

Just for interest's sake, I asked how many golf carts were available for rent on the island. With pen and paper, Adrian and Apache did a quick tally, estimating that there are twenty golf cart rental companies on Isla Mujeres with a total of approximately 580 carts available for rent. Even so, many island rental companies are sold out during the busy times of the year, including the summer holidays. That bit of information really surprised me.

More recently, Apache has branched out into deep-sea fishing, acquiring a thirty-six-foot boat in partnership with friends. The two family-owned pangas (small open fishing boats) were not comfortable for offshore fishing with clients. The bigger boat has air-conditioning and cozy interior quarters. 

He is hoping to attract more couples – people who want the full experience. His offshore trips will start early in the day with fishing, then return to the Indio's beach club property to cook the catch while enjoying music and drinking a cold beverage or two. It's island life as it used to be.

With two sons and two daughters, Apache and his wife Arlina are hoping the family businesses will live on with the next generation. He has fond memories of fishing with his dad, and of learning English from his dad's clients. 

Isauro Martinez Magaña, May 2013

He has several old photos displayed on the walls of Indio's Golf Cart rentals on Medina Avenue, photos of his dad in his younger years, enjoying life and following his passion: fishing. Unfortunately, Indio passed away in August of 2013, at the still young-at-heart age of 64 years.

“One last question,” I said to Apache as I gathered up my things, “I have to know your real name, not knowing is driving me crazy!”

“Okay, okay!” he grinned, giving in to my cheeky persistence, “It's Isauro Martinez Polanco.” He was named after his dad, whose first name was also Isauro.

How to find Apache: www.indios-golfcarts.com  or on Facebook, Isla Mujeres Indio Golf Carts and Apache's Searious Fishing.

Hasta luego, Lawrie, Lynda, Sparky, and Thomas the Cat

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky

You know you’ve picked the right place to retire when ….(Lawrie’s turn to write)

North Beach from a penthouse at IxChel Condos

Okay, I admit it, we got lucky when we chose Isla Mujeres as our retirement destination. Captivated by the turquoise water and friendly locals, we jumped at the chance to live here. Now, prestigious TripAdvisor has named our little island #6 in the world for islands to live on.  Travelocity rated Isla as #4 for Value Vacations, and even Fox News and NBC have gotten into the act, touting this little paradise.

Looking south from the IxChel Condos.

Isla Mujeres is a very small island, 7 kilometres by 1 kilometre, situated off the coast of Cancun. It’s about fifteen minutes by passenger ferry across the azure and turquoise water to reach this little paradise. Tourism is the #1 industry on the island, followed by fishing, although reeling in tourists is far more profitable than fishing. Tourism is increasing, and more people are travelling.  Fishing is decreasing due to fewer fish available.

One of our favourite views, fishing boats.

An abundance of island restaurants cater to every taste, and there are many great watering holes serving up icy cold beer and frozen concoctions to help your vacation along. And of course, there are beaches, lots of beaches. All very safe.

We are not the type of folks with what we refer to as a drawbridge mentality.  You know the type; once they have discovered a place, they don’t want anyone else to discover it lest it might change. Change is good. It keeps the community vibrant and alive. 

And fishing nets ....

Some of the things that make living as an expat in a foreign country easier are electronic readers that enable us to download the most recent novels, magazines, and newspapers. We and many of our friends have magicJack phones that allow us to call anywhere in the US or Canada – free. The nearby Cancun International Airport gives us travel options with direct flights to many countries. It’s all good.

Mini market and restaurante near Salina Grande

So, if you are thinking of a great retirement location, or just a vacation slightly off the beaten path, consider Isla Mujeres.  If you are like us and dive right into a new adventure, you will find professional real estate companies, good builders, and a very fun and affordable little community that will make you feel right at home.



Hasta Luego          
Lynda and Lawrie

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The textures of Isla Mujeres, Mexico!

A Canadian friend recently mentioned that Isla has textures, many textures - layers within layers.  He's right.

El Varadero Cocina Criolla the inner harbour

We have had similar discussions with friends while sampling food at restaurants, or relaxing with a cool drink at various locations on the island.  Conversations that start out with: "This is amazing!  You wouldn't even know we were on Isla." 

We might have been sitting at the Cuban restaurante El Varadero Cocina Criolla, hanging out over the water in a scene reminiscent of the 1951 movie African Queen starring Katharine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart, waiting for the famed boat to putt-putt past.



Bar centre piece at Captain Dulche

Or perhaps we were sitting at the Captain Dulché Museum and Restaurante on the sand-swept west side of the island. This location, with its marine artifacts, metal sculptures from Cuba, numerous Maya antiques, huge palapa restaurant, and rotating bar, is so over-the-top-beautiful it could be in any 5-star resort in the world. 

The view towards the Cancún skyline is gorgeous any time of the day, and the sunsets can be downright spectacular.

Today we had a terrific lunch at Zazil-Ha on the north end of the island, tucked inside the Nabalam Hotel complex. We gazed out onto Playa Norte, famous for its blindingly-white sandy beaches featured in the Corona beer commercials. 

Lawrie tempted the beer gods at lunch. 
He ordered a Sol beer instead of a Corona. Oh, oh!

Sol beer on a Corona beach!

A few million dollars in bad-boy yachts were anchored in the shallow waters of North Beach, allowing guests to swim in the shallow, turquoise water. Playa Norte is the beach that most of the tourist sun-worshipers prefer, with rentable beach chairs or loungers, restaurants, bars and beach vendors all looking to sell their wares. 

It's also a nearby location where topless sunbathing is grudgingly accepted, as the locals are quite conservative. 

The women and girls frequently swim fully dressed in shorts, t-shirts, and underwear, while the men will remove their t-shirts and swim in their shorts.

Family enjoying North Beach

A little further around the corner on the northwestern side of the island are the public beaches where most of the domestic tourists and their families gather to enjoy the deliciously warm Caribbean Sea. 

Across from this beach is Jax Bar & Grill. Their second-floor patio one of our favourite places to hang out and watch the action. 

The entertainment can include watching the locals playing a pick-up volleyball game, or savouring the smells wafting up from the street vendors' food carts, or listening to the families enjoying their beach, their island, their country.

Just play!  Don't speak to me!

Sometimes we loaf around at Cocteleria Minino's, discussing the beauty of the island with our toes dug into the soft sand, watching the two eighty-something brothers play the marimbas.  They are still angry, not speaking to each other after a fight several years ago.  Awkward. 

On the beach, between Cocteleria Minino's and the PeMex gas station is a worn, wooden booth where the fishermen clean and sell the day's catch. Good sounds, good smells.



Birds looking for treats at fish cleaning station

There are many, many more layers of Isla to discover.  We are taking our time, enjoying, savouring every minute.  Waiter, another Sol, please.   
 
Señor, otro Sol, por favor.

Hasta pronto

Lynda & Lawrie
    _______________________

Walking, camera in hand, is one of our favourite things to do early in the morning or early evening, snapping photos of the various areas of the island. In sorting through our more than 7000 digital photos of Isla, it is a chore to decide between photographs. This photo or that one? Have we overused that particular photo? Does this one show the flavours, textures, layers better?  To be continued .......

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Road trip to one of the top ten beaches in the world! Tulum, Mexico!



1955 Oldsmobile - Dad, Judy, and I (The short one!)

When my sisters and I were kids, Dad’s favourite trick was to announce early in the morning that we were going on a “Mystery Trip” and we had to be in the car in an hour or we would get left behind. 

Road trips – love ‘em!



Beaches of Tulum, Mexico

This time, Lawrie and I were headed out on an overnight trip to visit the sugar white beaches of Tulum, dotted with little eco-chic hotels and gourmet restaurants.  

The beaches of Tulum were just recently rated in the Top Ten Beaches of the World by TripAdvisor fans. 

As we drove south towards the City of Tulum, our first stop was Pelicanos Restaurant in Puerto Morelos for breakfast. Situated on the beach at Puerto Morelos, it was the perfect place to enjoy the view of the ocean and watch the local kids having a great time in the surf. 

We drove a few more miles south to the beach area at Tulum and ate a late supper at a fabulous beachside Italian Restaurant in the Posada Margherita. 

The owner/waiter came to our table and described our four dinner choices for the evening: grilled fish, fish sautéed in seawater, pasta with lobster, and pasta with veggies. 

We made our choices, ordered a yummy bottle of red wine. 

Five minutes later, he returned with a wonderful selection of complimentary appetizers. The food and wine were perfect.   



Copy of temple friezes for our pool on Isla Mujeres



After breakfast in the morning, we headed up the road towards Coba. we were on the search for the creator of wall plaques that are copies of the temple friezes at various Mayan ruins. The first location we stopped at had a few, but the roadside vendor directed us farther on up the road, past a couple of the small villages, to where his dad and brothers made the pieces.

We eventually settled on a triptych of three plaques for the wall near our pool. 

A little dickering over the price, lots of admiring of Don Alfredo’s other works and his autographed book by a famous photographer from New York, and his sons wrapped our purchase in cardboard for the trip home. 

La Zebra beach cottages & gourmet restaurant

Next stop was back to the beaches of South Tulum to spend the afternoon at La Zebra Restaurant and Beach Club. It is in the same area as Posada Margherita, but further along the winding beach road. 

Great spot to fritter away a few hours in complete relaxation – white sand beaches, very few people, nice restaurant within a few steps of the beach, and a shower to rinse away the sand before changing back into travelling clothes. 

Eventually, we started our circuitous route home, stopping for a cappuccino at the Turtle Bay Bakery and Café in Akumal.

Turtle Bay Bakery & Cafe

It was very different than any road trip that my sisters and I went on as kids; six people jammed in the 1955 Oldsmobile, with an aging cocker spaniel that had a serious gas problem. 

And no gourmet meals on those trips!

Hasta pronto, Lynda and Lawrie

Grab your copy today!

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

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Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky