Topes – the speed bumps of life in paradise

Traffic police and raised tope on Rueda Medina in centro

Topes, the ever-present driving hazards in Mexico, are actually speedbumps designed to modify the Formula-1 habits of local drivers.  Topes come in many shapes and sizes, and in our opinion they are all annoying.  Necessary but annoying.

There are the raised yellow-and-white striped crosswalks, one of the few places in Mexico where the pedestrians have the right-of-way.  These are usually near schools, or busy areas such as the original exit from the passenger ferry terminal on Isla Mujeres.  Usually these topes are controlled by traffic police using hand gestures and several sharp notes of a whistle to snag the attention of drivers distracted by Smartphones, selfie-sticks, or bikini-clad tourists.  Afternoons on Rueda Medina can be bedlam with visitors disgorging from tour boats and passenger ferries.  The combination of well-marked crosswalks and traffic police reduce the number of close encounters of the painful kind, between people and vehicles.

Topes slow down the speeders - a little

Then there are the normal topes, the narrow, recycled-rubber contraptions that are bolted to the pavement.  These hard bits of latex can give drivers a nice back-shaking jolt when crossing.  The good thing about this style of tope is they are visible even on rainy nights as their distinctive yellow and black stripes are part of the rubber compound, not just painted on the surface. 

Hand-made tope sign on right

A nasty unpainted bump is located on the south-western side of the island, near the horse coral, and across the street from the construction site for a new house.  Rubber-necking the progress of the new-build is guaranteed to give you a sharp thump of surprise when driving on this stretch of road.  I’ve done it so many times the construction crew cheers when I actually remember to slow down and traverse the tope at a crawl.  Driving past the crew this morning they pointed at a recently installed hand-made tope warning sign.  That was good for a chuckle, and a photo.

Moto pathway through tope

In that same stretch of road near the never-completed Unik Hotel (Unique) is a series of half-sphere metal bumps.  There is no easy way to cross these teeth-rattling orbs, unless you happen to be riding a moto.  Someone has thoughtfully removed a bump, one each side of the road, creating a pathway for a narrow wheel.  Experienced moto-drivers give a little hip waggle, dodging to the right and then left, whizzing away.

Doesn't look that bad - but our Mini scrapes on this one

There are two extra high topes on the island that cause our low-slung Mini Cooper a bit of navigational difficulty.  One is the muffler-scraping lump in centro on Matamores just west of Olivia’s Restaurante.  With two people and one small dog in the car it’s a slow crawl for us, taken at a forty-five degree angle to get over the steep-sided speedbump.  When we have friends with us in the car we don’t drive on that block of Matamores.   The other problem tope for our car is near the bakery in the Salinas Grande neighbourhood.  It’s a slow, and noisy scrap over that one as well.

Moto slowing for unmarked and unpainted tope

But our absolute least favourite type of tope is the raised bump in the pavement: black and invisible.  The sharp bump will rattle your back teeth if you don’t have all the topes mapped out in your head.  These are the sneaky gotchas, where the original yellow cautionary paint has been worn away by vehicle tires and rainstorms.  The once visible metal warning signs are typically a victim of rust and corrosion, either laying on the ground or missing entirely.  The southbound lane of the double-wide Passeo de Aves, near the YZA Farmica has one of these invisible lumps.  No sign.  No paint.  You have to rely on your memory: or not!

Snoozing in paradise

And finally, there are the warm and fuzzy topes: sleeping dogs.  Snoozing on a warm street is a favourite pastime for local pooches.  

Keep your eyes peeled for these guys.  They are just enjoying a nap on their little piece of island paradise. 

Hasta Luego

Lynda & Lawrie

The Painted Ladies of Isla

Great background for memorable photos

They are the grand old dames of Isla, the painted ladies of centro – the one level wooden houses that are scattered throughout the downtown area of the island.  

Built back in the 1920’s and 30’s they have survived hurricanes, infestations of wood-eating tropical bugs and progress. 

La Tablitas - Hemingways different colours again

Tablitas or Hemingways Bar is probably the most photographed of all of the buildings.  Located on the corner of Matamoros and Guerro Avenues it was a favourite local cantina with a noisy mix of people enjoying their afternoon beverages.  It is a prime location for wedding photographers to capture a bit of local history and provide a colourful background for a memorable wedding photo.  Tablitas closed on Monday February 29^th under the previous management.  According to island scuttlebutt the owner of the building did not renew the operator’s lease and is planning to open a cantina under his management.  Hopefully it will maintain its funky and fun character.

Tony Garcia's auntie owns this pretty building

Another beautifully painted grand old dame is on the corner of Matamoros and Juarez Avenues.  

Built originally by Tony Garcia’s grandfather Heriberto Delgado de Tejada, father to Guadalupe Delgado Diaz, the house now belongs to his auntie Apolonia Delgado Diaz.  

Painted a cheerful combination of raspberry pink, sunflower yellow and pale blue it is an eye-catching resident of the neighbourhood.  Recently the doors facing onto Matamoros Avenue were open and it appeared that a lady had set up a sewing business. 

Quite close by is another of our favourite painted ladies.  Located on Juarez Avenue it is divided by two fanciful paint jobs.  

The southern half is bright yellow with blue, red and white trim, while the northern half is a tropical orange with white trim.  We have never been able to figure out if this is two homes, or one home and one business. 

Hard to see in the daytime with souvenirs piled everywhere

Most of the other interesting houses are located along the pedestrian only street where the souvenir sellers are congregated.  Some contain shops, others are a false front with the entrance located on the main road of Rueda Medina.  In the daytime these buildings are usually hidden under piles of merchandise, and is difficult to really appreciate their character.  

Silk-screen printing shop

Facing the square near City Hall is a fairly recent addition, La Casa Madera, which has replaced the silk-screen printing shop.  

They have done a beautiful job of restoring the old building, and judging by the photos on their Facebook page are a very popular lunch stop for locals and tourists.

We have been told that the old wooden houses are protected from demolition by city bylaws.  The one thing that they can’t be protected from are fires – either accidental, or convenient fires.  

Fingers-crossed, the painted ladies will survive for many more years adding a bit of fun and character to the northern part of the island.

Hasta Luego

Lawrie & Lynda

Now Case de Madera Cafeteria

If anyone has more details on the history of these old time houses, please feel free to email me, or post a comment on the blog.  I can update the article as I find out more information.