Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (sad to leave Newfoundland, The Rock)

Our last night on The Rock

July 29th: I know, I've skipped a few days! 

I haven't done a whole lot besides sleep, and drive since July 27th. For some reason my energy level has bottomed out and I am taking it easy until I feel perkier. Sparky, on the other hand, is bored silly with my lack of enthusiasm for his exploratory walks.

I have now driven over 18,000 kilometers since leaving Penticton on May 1st. The odometer clicked over just as we were coming into Pasenda Newfoundland, where we stopped in for a cup of tea and a sandwich with Bernadine and Stewart Cochrane. They are new friends with an Isla Mujeres Mexico connection.

Fishing at Bishop's Falls NL

Today, we caught the noon ferry from Port Aux Basques, and sailed away to more adventures back on the mainland of Canada. 

I really enjoyed the 4 weeks that The Sparkinator and I roamed around Newfoundland. It was everything I thought it would be, and more. Some of my best memories were meeting the locals, chatty, friendly, helpful and always smiling. I occasionally struggled to understand what they were saying and I'm sure some of the folks couldn't understand me either. Everyone, young and old, of any gender, have called me honey, my love, sweetie, darling, and my darling. It's startling at first and then it becomes charmingly normal.

One gentleman in Corner Brook chatted with me for a good five minutes, nicely telling me why I shouldn't drive the wrong way on a one-way street. He sent me on my way with a smile and 'you have a good day now.' spoken rapidly in his Newfie dialect. To be fair, it was only the entrance to the Greenway Hotel, and I thought I could get away with a quick zip into the parking lot, instead of driving around the block. He politely disagreed with my decision!

Codroy Provincial Park NL

This is a vast province, much larger than I ever imagined, and I didn't even attempt to explore the larger mainland section of Labrador. (The full name of the province is Newfoundland and Labrador). Sparky and I roamed several of the indented peninsula's exploring tiny hamlets, villages, and towns. We covered just over 5000 kilometers on Newfoundland and I don't think I covered even half of the area. 

It has stunning scenery everywhere you go, but as you have probably gathered by my photos I am in love with the ocean, boats, and colourful buildings. The mountain ranges, massive forests, tumbling brooks, and numerous lakes are beautiful too, they just don't catch my eye the way the coastline does.

A man walking his cat, Port Harmon

So, I'll leave this with a few of my favourite photos of Newfoundland. (I have several hundred photos but they won't all fit in this blog!)

I hope many of you have plans to explore this beautiful, and still wild, part of the world.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Icebergs at Twillingate NL

Jelly Bean Row St. John's (covers many streets)

Puffins at Cape Bonavista NL

Colourful boats, Winterton NL

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (charming Champney's West & Trinity NL)

July 25th: Driving south on Highway #230 in the direction of the Trans Canada Highway, on our way to Gander NL, I spotted a sign for Trinity. I'd heard it is a colourful and charming village, so I turned left towards Trinity. 

Champney's West 

Except I turned too soon, and ended up meandering along a narrow road toward  Champney's West. This village wasn't on my radar, but I'm glad that I continued to the end of the road.

Champney's West is a beautiful community, located in the group known as Trinity Bight. I checked the population figures and got various results of 75 to 432.

Apparently no one really knows! Perhaps they are including the ghosts of past residents. 

I also had to look up the word "bight." It's a long, gradual bend or recess in the shoreline that forms a large, open bay. 

Road leading to Champney's West.

Eventually I found the correct road to Trinity, in Trinity Bay. The road branched off of the same road that Sparky and I had explored a few days ago when we were on our way to our cottage at Little Catalina. We were too early to check-in, so I diverted to Highway #239, and drove to the end at Old Bonaventura. On the way back I stopped for fish and chips at the Lucky Spike food truck, and then continued on to Little Catalina. I completely missed Trinity that day!

Old Bonaventura (New Bonaventura is nearby) 

At the Lucky Spike food truck

Great fish and chips freshly made

Trinity, Trinity Bay NL

When I eventually found Trinity, in Trinity Bay - I was thrilled! 

It is set in a gorgeous bay, the historic buildings are beautifully restored, and and new ones have been designed to blend with the existing ambiance. 

One company seems to be the major landlord for many of the buildings, Artisan Inn offers rooms, suites, and private vacation homes scattered throughout the community. They also own and operate the Twine Loft Restaurant, offering "a waterside culinary experience."

Heading out to look for whales

The area is also well-known for  hiking, sea kayaking, whale, bird and iceberg watching, fine dining, theatre, museums, and shopping. 

If I am ever back this way, I would definitely stay in Trinity.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Puffins at Bonavista Newfoundland)

The farthest island is the nesting site

July 23rd: At around ten in the morning the fog lifted and we started out on a quest to photograph the cute and comical provincial bird of Newfoundland - the Atlantic Puffin. 

Nearby Elliston is listed as the best place to get close enough for photographs, so that's where I was headed. 

Except, they don't allow dogs! Even though the seabird sanctuary is a separate island, adjacent to the community of Elliston, dog are not allowed anywhere near the site. 

Elliston, gift store specializing in puffin items

Disappointed, I returned to the car. I had intended to drop Sparky back at our cottage in nearby Little Catalina, but instead turned towards Bonavista. I could always come back the next day on my own. 

Elliston also Root Cellar Capital of World

So, a bit of history about Bonavista from Wikipedia. It is believed to have been settled 5000 years before by the ancestors of the Beothuk indigenous group. 

The first recorded European contact was John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto), a freelance Italian explorer, contracted by England's Henry VII to find new lands, and a sea route to the Orient. Cabot set sail from Bristol, England in his ship the Matthew in 1497. 

When Cabot first saw land he reputedly said "O Buon Vista" ("Oh, Happy Sight!") giving rise to the name of the town and nearby Cape Bonavista. 

Functioning lighthouse at Bonavista NL

Bonavista became one of the most important towns in Newfoundland due to its proximity to the rich fishing and sealing grounds. The Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, French and English fished off Cape Bonavista during the 16th century, but the Spanish and Portuguese presence soon declined, leaving the French and English as the dominant powers. 

Bonavista Newfoundland

As a result of European encroachment, slaughter, and diseases to which they had no natural resistance, the Beothuk's numbers diminished rapidly following contact. Some internet sources say the Beothuk have been completely wiped out, others note a few remaining people who identify as descendants of the Beothuk. Either way the culture has been decimated.

Now, the main industry is tourism. Last year Bonavista hosted nearly a hundred thousand tourists enjoying a glimpse of the puffins, the wild scenery, whales, icebergs, and the quaint villages of the Bonavista Peninsula.

Thousands of puffins - I needed a better lens

Cape Bonavista still has a fully operational lighthouse and the original seal oil fueled light apparatus that was used in the 1800s can be seen.

At the base of the lighthouse I had a great view of the Cape Bonavista puffin colony, and I was able to take a snap a few photos. Not great photos because of the distance, but a reminder of my first sighting of the industrious and charming puffins. If you are headed to Newfoundland, and interested in the puffins - buy a decent camera and a good telephoto lens! I wish I had upgraded.

Atlantic Puffins! So cute.

Cheers Lynda and Sir Fuzz-butt

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Screeching in at Sunnyside B&B Newfoundland)

Master of Ceremonies Danny

“Do you want to become a Newfoundlander?” Danny a native-born Newfoundlander asked the initiates, Judy and John, who are also guests at the Sunnyside B&B owned and operated by Danny and his wife Sarah.

The "screech-in" is a ceremony performed on non-Newfoundlanders (known to Newfoundlanders as a "come from away" or "mainlander")

Wearing the traditional Sou'Wester

With a bit of prompting, reminiscent to a minister reciting wedding vows to a bride and groom, John and Judy, gave the proper response, “Yes b’y!”

 

Next Danny handed them the traditional sou’wester rain gear. Once they were properly dressed, he then asked, “Is ye a Screecher?”

 

Then exaggerating the typical Newfie lingo and speaking rapidly he prompted them to reply with, “Deed I is, me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!” (That translates to, “Indeed, I am, my old friend, and may there always be wind in your sails!”)

Eating Newfie steak - bologna

Eating a piece of ‘Newfie steak,” a bit of cold bologna was the next part of the ceremony. John popped his piece in his mouth and swallowed, but Judy’s response was a variety of hilarious faces. She got it down, but not easily.

A more recent variation is the participants being required to kiss the rear end of a rubber Puffin. Either way everyone was laughing by this stage of the ceremony.

John, Kissing the Cod

Then came the kissing of a cod and more funny faces. 

There were also a number of hilariously funny and rapidly spoken Newfie verses that John and Judy had to stumble through, but I haven’t been able to find the correct lines anywhere on the internet.

Judy, Kissing the Cod

And finally, John and Judy were instructed to stand in a container of Newfoundland sea-water, recite the verse below and toss back a shot of Screech, (rum).

From the waters of the Avalon, to the shores of Labrador,

We’ve always stuck together, with a rant and a roar.

To those who’ve never been, soon they’ll understand,

From coast to coast, we raise a toast, we love thee Newfoundland!

The toast, and shot of Screech!

Where did the name Screech come from? Legend has it that Demerara Rum, from the West Indies, was very popular in Newfoundland. It was brought in, bottled, and sold in an unlabeled bottle (everyone knew what it was). During World War II, the Americans set up bases in Newfoundland. One night, a serviceman was out drinking with some locals. Eager to try the traditional drink of the province, he took a shot of the unnamed rum. When he was able to breathe again, the serviceman let loose a loud noise that was later described as some sort of horrible "screech". The name stuck.

Judy, Danny, John 

Most Newfies are no longer cod fishermen, but they enjoy letting visitors in on their sense of humor, their history, and their hooch. I love this place!

~

The Sunnyside B&B is an over-the-top-full-service B&B, that has RV parking and a made-in-Newfoundland gift store. With advance notice Sarah will also prepare evening meals for guests. Danny does fishing tours and the famous Screechin' In ceremony. I highly recommend staying here if you are planning to travel to Newfoundland. 

https://sunnysideoflifebandbrvandtea.com/

https://trucesoundadventures.com/

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Burin then on to Arnold's Cove NL)

July 20th: Sparky and I started to explore the Burin Peninsula from Grand Bank to St. Lawrence in Newfoundland. After driving through 35 kilometers of thick fog, we hit a long stretch of road construction and gravel roads so I turned the car around. My Mazda doesn't need to be beaten up any more than absolutely necessary.

Road #221 Burin area of Newfoundland 

July 21st: I poked along through various communities from Marystown, to Lewin's Cove, Back Cove, Burin, Port au Bras, and Beau Bois taking photos and exploring. I didn't want to arrive too early at our next place in Arnold's Cove. (More photos below!)

Ha! It turns out the joke was on me. 

After 80 days of traveling, this was the first f**k up with a reservation.

I had booked one night at a cottage in Arnold's Cove Newfoundland, only to discover the owner had changed from nightly rentals to monthly rentals. Her cottage and every bedroom in the main house were jammed with long-term renters.

When I called her Ontario cell phone, she said she had canceled my reservation months ago. I then told her that Booking.com had processed the payment on July 18th for my reservation so as far as I knew, I had a valid reservation. It's the only disadvantage of staying in tiny rural communities. They rarely have more than one or two options for accommodations. My worst nightmare was about to come true - sleeping in my car!

Driving through Arnold's Cove in search of another option I happened upon Andrew, the owner/operator of Killick In the Cove https://thekillickinthecove.com/. His property was full, but he put me in touch with Sarah at The Sunnyside of Life in the nearby community of Sunnyside, a short drive from Arnold's Cove. https://sunnysideoflifebandbrvandtea.com/

Sunnyside B&B in Sunnyside NL

Thankfully, Sarah and Danny had a room. And they were fine with Sparky staying. And Sarah was going to cook dinner for her B&B guests. OMG, she's an angel.

My next blog is about two of their guests getting 'screeched in.' It was hilarious!

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

Memorial at Lewin's Cove for lost fishermen

Bunkies for rent a Burin Eco-tours

Cafe at the end of the road - we were too early

Burin: islands, coves, bays, fjords

Beau Bois, rowboat at anchor

Shells on the beach at Beau Bois NL

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Quidi Vidi and then southwest to Grand Bank NL)

Quidi Vidi Brewing in Quidi Vidi NL

July 19th: For the first time in 80 days of traveling, the compass on my car's dashboard pointed west. The Fuzz-butt and I still have more places to explore but we are now slowly heading back in the direction of Penticton BC. I plan to arrive home around September 1st, all going well.

Leaving our hotel I took a quick detour, toward the nearby village of Quidi Vidi. The locals aren't sure if the unusual name was derived from Portuguese, Spanish, French or even Latin. No one knows the exact origin. This is where the Quidi Vidi Brewery is located, the makers of Iceberg Lager. "Brewed with pure 20,000 year-old iceberg water harvested straight from our shores." 

Quidi Vidi Newfoundland

The 163-kilometre (100-mile) drive between St. John's and Goobies, near Come-by-Chance, on the Trans Canada Highway is long and not very interesting. 

It's one of the few times that I stayed on the main highway. The sideroads are much more fun, but I had a longer than normal distance to drive, so stayed with easy and boring. 

Grand Bank NL

At Goobies, I turned south and drove another 197 kilometres toward the town of Grand Bank located at the bottom of the Burin Peninsula and on the edge of the famous Grand Banks fishing grounds.

Sparky and I are staying in a cottage on the outskirts of town that is part of a B&B.

 It's very comfortable, and the owners are great, but the three cans of bug spray at the outside fire pit is probably a clue as to the type of uninvited guests that hang around in the evenings.

Cheers Lynda and The Sparkinator

At the B&B's firepit

Grand Bank NL

Sharon's Nook Grand Bank NL

A mom duck, wondering why this kid is so big

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Cape Spear, on the edge of Canada)

Sparky at Cape Spear NL

 July 18th: Cape Spear, the eastern edge of Canada is located just a short drive from St. John's Newfoundland. Sparky and I visited there, and he posed for a photo! 

Cape Spear Newfoundland, photo Kevin Williams

Cape Spear looking toward St. John's harbour

Marker for the East Coast Trail

And for my hiking, trekking friends. The East Coast Trail is a wilderness pathway that passes through more than 30 communities in Newfoundland, for a distance of 336 kilometres, or 209 miles. National Geographic named it one of the best adventure destinations in 2012. 

Old time police car in Black Head Newfoundland

Then we roamed around the St. John's harbour entrance that was once protected by the now defunct Fort Amherst.

Entrance to St. John's harbour

Houses on the Signal Hill side of harbour

After dinner, I took the Fuzz-butt for an evening stroll along the summertime-only pedestrian mall located just two blocks from our hotel. The restaurants on Water Street were busy, but I was in bed and asleep far too early to hear the live music playing various venues on nearby George Street. 

Busy Water Street St John's NL 

We had an early morning departure because we were traveling from St. John's to the southern tip of the Burin Peninsula, a six-hour drive. 

Cheers Lynda and Fuzz-butt