A Canadian writer's life

Friday, September 5, 2014

Shocking diabetes statistics in Mexico

Fishing economy is changing to tourism.

Sometimes, in the course of looking for ideas to write about for our weekly blog, we come across information that is surprising or even quite shocking. Part-time resident Karen Rosenberg, LISW, recently emailed me the stats on diabetes in Mexico, and they are awful!

According to Mexico’s Department of Social Health, it is believed that 20% of all Mexican women and more than 25% of men are at risk of developing the disease. It’s the nation’s #1 killer, resulting in about 70,000 deaths a year. Diabetes has also become the main cause of limb loss and blindness in Mexico.

Tourists enjoying North Beach on a Sunday afternoon.

The economy of Isla Mujeres is gradually shifting from a fishing community to a tourism-based community.

In the busy season from December to May, workers can conceivably earn more money in tips from restaurant or bar patrons, but on average, most islanders earn around $9.00 USD per day. That does not leave enough money for healthy eating. Inexpensive processed food and high-sugar beverages are commonplace.

Affordable, Coca-Cola for baby

We shudder every time we see the young construction workers pedal past on their bicycles, clutching their lunch break supplies in one hand. Most days their lunch consists of a two-litre bottle of Coca-Cola and a fifty-cent stack of tortillas.

A few years ago, the Medical Director of the Salud Publica (health clinic on Isla Mujeres) stated that the clinic does not have glucose monitoring devices or meters available. He estimated that up to 80% of the islanders live with undiagnosed diabetes until it is a life-threatening condition.

Diabetes Clinic

Karen Rosenberg has been coming to Isla for 18 years, and hosting the Portals to the Self: Isla Mujeres Women's Retreat at the Na Balam Hotel for 15 years.

Karen said she started the clinics after a friend who worked at the hotel died from complications of undiagnosed diabetes, and another friend at the Women’s Beading Co-op went into a diabetic coma.

The first two free clinics were held at the Women's Beading Cooperative, but they soon outgrew the limited space and moved the next year to the English School premises. The following year, the clinic was so well attended that they relocated again, this time to the even larger space at the Red Cross location in La Gloria.

Diabetes Clinic workers

Another community-minded full-time resident, Kathy Ennis, RN, pitched in to help with the clinics.

Then Geovanny Avalos from the Cruz Roja Isla Mujeres added his invaluable assistance, helping the health professionals with testing and diabetes education.

Registration of the walk-ins is handled by members of the Women's Beading Cooperative, so this effort is a collaboration of ex-pats and local Islenos.

Members of Women's Beading Cooperative at art fair

So, what can you do to help? The organizers are in desperate need of donations of test strips and meters, preferably Contour and Contour Next brands. The Fifth Annual Diabetes Clinic will be held on Thursday, October 23^rd, starting at 9:00 a.m., at the Red Cross. The clinic will continue during the day until the supplies run out. They will test blood sugar levels, teach the recipients how to use the meters to monitor their blood glucose, educate them about diabetes, and give replacement supplies when needed.

Karen writes: “If you have any connection with pharmaceutical companies or reps, doctors’ offices or hospitals that can donate these supplies (short-dated or even recently expired), please contact me via private message on Facebook.

“Money donations may be made through PayPal. Supplies will then be purchased in your name and used for the clinic attendees.” If you would like additional information, please contact Karen or Kathy. Hopefully, these shocking numbers will motivate others to help out with the battle against diabetes on our favourite little island in paradise.

Hasta luego,

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Friday, August 29, 2014

Trouble in Paradise! Returns are a pain in the butt in Mexico.

Paradise - 99% of the time!

Arrgh! There are a few occasions when living in a foreign country, in a foreign culture, and not being fluent in the local language can make us crazy with frustration.

We seldom “bitch” about anything in this blog, preferring instead to keep it upbeat and positive, but this week Home Depot Cancun pushed all of our buttons: the Frustrated Button, the Annoyed Button, and the dreaded Crabby Button.

We have four ceiling fans in our house, one in each bedroom, and two on the downstairs floor that have been working just fine for the last seven years, but were near the end of their usefulness. Rust, corrosion, and squeaky motors: it was time to replace them all.

The store we love to hate.

Lawrie and I went to Home Depot in Cancun and purchased four matching Hampton Bay fans – made in China and sold exclusively by Home Depot and not available anywhere else.

The fans were a decent price, dark brown fake palm-leaf-shaped blades, exterior quality, so they should last for quite a while, well, until at least one week before the ten-year warranty expires, that is.

When we got back to the island, we called Patricio, our friend who built our home seven years ago, asking him if his electricians could install the fans. Jose, Benito, and a new trainee, Juan, were at our house within a few minutes. Within an hour or so, the guys had all four fans installed, but only three worked. Jose tested all the circuits and connections still nothing is happening with the fourth fan.

"No worries, just take it down and put it back in the box. I'll return it to Home Depot tomorrow," I said.

Three fans installed and working just great.

Jose grinned at me, said something to the other guys, making them laugh aloud. He went on to say in Spanish something about Lawrie should have lunch, go to a movie, and do a bit of shopping while I waited at Home Depot.

I nodded and laughed in that polite not-quite-understanding way that everyone uses now and again when you have absolutely no idea what the other person is saying.

The following day, we headed back to Cancun to exchange the fan.

Got the original receipt? Check. Fan and all the original parts? Check. Original box? Check. Okay, good to go. We will just pop in and exchange it for an identical one. Easy.

At the Home Depot return counter, we explained in Spanglish that the fan was not operating, and we would like to exchange it for a new one. Lawrie went ahead into the store to make sure they had more in stock. He loaded one into a cart and returned to wait patiently with me at the returns counter.

The returns counter - waiting, waiting.

The first clerk looked at the receipt, then she looked at me, looked at the box and re-checked the receipt and huffed indignantly. She took all the parts out of the box to look at them. Well, I was impressed. She must have had the parts list memorized.

She could tell just by poking and prodding at the various little bags that we hadn't secretly held back any of the parts; that we didn't keep any of the 16 pieces of part AA Blade attachment hardware, or the 3 of part BB wire connecting nuts, or the 5 of part G Blade bracket screws, or the 1 EE a balancing kit, or even the 1 HH pull chain. What an amazing memory she must have.

Another clerk was paged, and everyone repeated the process: look at us, the receipt, the box, poke at the parts, and look at us again. Nothing had been said up to this point by any of the staff members.

The parts list

We are now feeling vaguely sleazy. We were certain the staff thought that we had somehow managed to steal this fan out from under the noses of the cashiers and security guards.

These are the same security guards who are located ten feet from the cashiers, and consistently check every bag, box and item before stamping the receipt and allowing the customer to exit the store.

We are still waiting at the returns desk, and a third clerk is paged. Same routine. Still, no one is saying anything. We are now hitting the thirty-minute mark. I asked if there was a problem. No answer, instead a fourth clerk is called via a portable radio. He explains that since I had already been back to the store to return a fan, I must have another receipt, that the one I had presented to them was incorrect.

Really? We purchased the fans two days previously. We live on Isla Mujeres. We have not been back to Cancun or Home Depot to exchange any fans until today. This is the original receipt. All we want to do is exchange one non-working fan for a hopefully working fan. (Can you tell, my Crabby Button has just been pushed?)

The four clerks exchange knowing glances: “Whoa, Crabby Person! Better call in the big boss.” The department head is paged. He tests the motor to be sure that we aren't lying. It will work - if he pushes it with his fingers - but will not start on its own. No problem. He nods and tells them to go ahead and do the exchange. He then repackages the defunct item and places it back on the shelf with the other fans that are for sale. Problem solved.

Headed home to Isla

At five minutes short of an hour, we exit Home Depot with our replacement ceiling fan. Back home on Isla, I sent a text to Jose, and he was there within minutes to install it.

That's when we read the 10-year warranty fine print: the warranty document must be stamped and signed at the time of purchase at the store where the product was sold.

Are you kidding me? We were supposed to open the box at the store, read the warranty document, get it stamped and signed before we left the store!

Double Arrgh!

Therapy!

And just to be clear, Home Depot Cancun is not the only store that teaches its staff to provide poor customer service.

It is very common. We marvel at our Mexican friends who nonchalantly accept indifferent treatment, bordering on rudeness.

They just shrug their shoulders and laugh: It's Mexico.

So, we take a deep breath, pour a glass of wine and sit on our ocean side patio.
This is the main reason we live in Mexico. We enjoy the climate, we enjoy our island and our waterfront casa, and we truly do enjoy the Mexican culture – most of the time.

Paradise!

Oh, and did we mention the new fan squeaks like a rat caught in a trap? Sigh, looks like we will be visiting our “favourite” store again: Home Depot in Cancun.

Hasta luego, Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

A few days later .....

Success! Paradise Reclaimed!

We have another replacement Hampton Bay ceiling fan from Home Depot, and so far, fingers-crossed, it is behaving beautifully.

And how did this miraculous event happen, you ask? Well, I went on the internet http://www.homedepot.com/c/Contact_Us and registered my complaint in a much shorter version than the blog article, and left out most of the drama and the Arrghs! (It wasn't nearly as much fun to write.)

1. The first response was an email acknowledging my complaint:
Shirley A. Mitchell
Resolution Expediter
Customer Care Email Team
The Home Depot - Store Support Center-
2455 Paces Ferry Road / B-3
Atlanta, GA 30339
Phone: (770) 433-8211 or 1-800-654-0688, Ext. 77341
Fax: (678) 556-7614

2. The second response was a follow-up email from Ms. Karen Cortés letting me know that, since the complaint originated at a Mexican store, she would assist us with any language problems we had:
Karen Cortés
Resolution Expediter
2455 Paces Ferry Road
Atlanta, GA 30339
Phone: 770-433-8211 or 1-800-654-0688 Ext: 77519
Fax: 678-556-7614

3. The third response was a phone call and a very nice email, in English, from the General Manager of Home Depot Cancun, Seňor Juan Espinosa Silva. Seňor Silva arranged to meet with us on Monday, September 1^st, to exchange the defective squeaky fan. We, of course, had optimistically tossed out all the packaging when we got the first replacement fan, thinking, “Oh boy, this one will work just fine.”

He said, “Don't worry, just bring the fan and the receipt, and we will replace it.”

I also asked about the 10-year warranty fine print: the warranty document must be stamped and signed at the time of purchase at the store where the product was sold. Seňor Silva advised us to just keep a photocopy of the original purchase receipt with the warranty documents.

When we entered the store, one of the clerks recognized me, smiled and greeted me by name. Oh, rats. I guess I made a really big impression on him last week when I did my Crabby Person rant at him. Rafa was very kind and accommodating, taking another fan out of stock, unboxing it, testing it, and re-boxing it.

So it looks like we have the problem solved, and so very much quicker than we anticipated. Thank you to everyone at Home Depot.

Hasta luego,

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Off the beaten path, Isla Mujeres, Mexico

So, you've been to Isla a time or two and are getting slightly bored with hanging out at the beach all day.

It might be a perfect time for you to explore, by golf cart, moto or bicycle, some of the local neighbourhoods instead of following the usual route along the perimeter road.

A decent map will help with your explorations.

Laura McFarlin, the MapChick, has a handy-dandy app and travel guide for the island. The printed map is available for sale at the hotel reception office of Marina Paraiso, located on Rueda Medina, just a couple of minutes south of the whale shark statue.

While you are at the office purchasing your map, you might want to make a quick stop at Barlito's @ Marina Paraiso for a coffee and one of Brad's almost-world-famous Cinnamon Buns. Yum! Raisins, cinnamon, icing – three of our favourite food groups!

Okay, got your supplies? Camera? Bottled water? Then let's go.

Head south along Rueda Medina until you see the naval housing complex on the left side of the road.

It is painted bright orange with a tall white perimeter fence and a guard at the gate. Turn left at the next street and slowly weave your way up and down the short blocks of the Caridad del Cobra and Canotal neighbourhoods.

Located between the Salinas Grande (a landlocked salty lake) and the perimeter road, this is a quiet residential area.

Please be respectful and keep a sharp eye out for kids, cats and dogs playing in the roadway.

A number of the roads will dead-end at the salinas or turn into pedestrian pathways, necessitating turning around and retracing your route to the next through street.

Many of the houses in these two neighbourhoods are painted in eye-catching colour combinations of pink, purple, green, yellow, turquoise, or orange.

Most of the really colourful houses seem to be on the streets with bird names; streets named Flamenco, Fragata, Garza Azul, Garza Blanca, Cormoran, and Aquila. I also discovered a few on Manglero (Raccoon Street).

Unfortunately, not all the streets have visible signage. Time + sea salt = disintegration of everything metal.

Don't assume you will always find a name for the road you are driving on. Our road-trip theory has always been: if you don't know where you are headed, you can't get lost. Just enjoy the experience.

And as we all know, driving in the tropical heat can be thirsty work. Oscar's Pizza & Restaurante is on the main road, Rueda Medina. Along the roadside entrance are a dozen or so huge wooden chairs made from the trunks of trees with twisted branches forming the back and arms.

It's a good place to have a cool beverage, and if you are lucky enough to be there after 5:00 in the afternoon when Michael and the crew fire up the pizza ovens, well, the New York-style pizzas are amazing, as are the delicious garlic knots. Garlic knots; another favourite food group in our house!

Get out there and explore the island. You will be glad you did.

Hasta luego,

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Friday, August 15, 2014

Waitin' on the African Queen, Isla Mujeres, Mexico

Abandoned boat near El Cuba Ron Restaurante

Relaxing with a cold beverage on a dockside bar, we watch the boats slip past; there are colourful fishing pangas, charter boats, and whale shark tour boats returning for the evening. Lush vegetation overhangs the languid blue-green water.

Laughter. Tropical heat. Music.

It could be the movie set from the 1951 movie, The African Queen, starring Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn.

Colourful panga-style fishing boat

The movie was made the year I was born, and was considered to be “culturally, historically or aesthetically significant" by the US Library of Congress.

That's an unusual honour considering in the movie Humphrey Bogart was portrayed as being a quirky and cantankerous Canadian while Katherine Hepburn was a proper, well-mannered Englishwoman.

View from upper deck at El Cuba Ron

However, on this particular afternoon, Lawrie and I are sitting on the new upper deck of the Varadero, also known as El Cuba Ron Restaurante, on Isla Mujeres.

According to owner Rafael Burgos Rios, the name Varadero means a place where boats are built, maintained, and repaired. His grandfather originally used the waterfront property to build and repair boats for island fishermen.

One of Rafael's family members

Born on Isla Mujeres on Mexican Independence Day in 1957, Rafael has Cuban, Spanish, and Mayan ancestors. His ancestors have been on Isla since 1896. His wife, Ana Jimenez, on the other hand, was born in Havana, Cuba, and moved to Isla Mujeres when she married Rafael.

When Rafael graduated from school, he followed in the footsteps of his grandfather, father, cousins, and uncles – working the boats that circulated on a trade route from Florida to Central America. The sailing ships brought oil, maize, medical supplies, shoes, clothing, and the mail.

For the return trip, the captains loaded live lobsters and turtles destined for American restaurants.

Ana and Rafael

For the first twelve years of operation, El Cuba Ron Restaurante was located on Guerrero Avenue in the funky old building where Pita Amour is now. Then, thirteen years ago, Rafael decided to move the business to the family-owned property on the canal that leads to Laguna Makax.

Built on the western side of the island near the big boat repair yard, it's a great place to hang out on an afternoon or to enjoy a tasty dinner later in the evening. On weekends, a Cuban band plays great music from mid-afternoon to early evening.

Rafael outside the entrance

The menu selections include several tasty fish, chicken and pork dishes prepared in the traditional Cuban style.

We also really enjoy their guacamole, and Lawrie is a big fan of their mojitos. Mojitos are addictive and sneaky! They are a refreshing drink made with white rum, soda water, sugar, lime and crushed mint.

The deceptively innocent taste makes it easy to forget how many you have consumed.

While we were enjoying the sunshine, the music, and the ambiance, a couple of large cruisers rafted alongside the restaurant – their passengers eager to join the fun.

Guest singer at El Cuba Ron Restaurante

One youngster confidently stepped up to the band leader and asked if he could join the group. Pretty soon, everyone was dancing and singing along to the tunes.

Well, the boat called the African Queen never did pass by, nor did we see Humphrey Bogart or Katherine Hepburn, but it was still a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

Waterside view of El Cuba Ron Restaurante

Hasta luego, Lawrie, Lynda, Sparky, and Thomas the Cat

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.