A Canadian writer's life: Barlito's

Friday, August 22, 2014

Off the beaten path, Isla Mujeres, Mexico

So, you've been to Isla a time or two and are getting slightly bored with hanging out at the beach all day.

It might be a perfect time for you to explore, by golf cart, moto or bicycle, some of the local neighbourhoods instead of following the usual route along the perimeter road.

A decent map will help with your explorations.

Laura McFarlin, the MapChick, has a handy-dandy app and travel guide for the island. The printed map is available for sale at the hotel reception office of Marina Paraiso, located on Rueda Medina, just a couple of minutes south of the whale shark statue.

While you are at the office purchasing your map, you might want to make a quick stop at Barlito's @ Marina Paraiso for a coffee and one of Brad's almost-world-famous Cinnamon Buns. Yum! Raisins, cinnamon, icing – three of our favourite food groups!

Okay, got your supplies? Camera? Bottled water? Then let's go.

Head south along Rueda Medina until you see the naval housing complex on the left side of the road.

It is painted bright orange with a tall white perimeter fence and a guard at the gate. Turn left at the next street and slowly weave your way up and down the short blocks of the Caridad del Cobra and Canotal neighbourhoods.

Located between the Salinas Grande (a landlocked salty lake) and the perimeter road, this is a quiet residential area.

Please be respectful and keep a sharp eye out for kids, cats and dogs playing in the roadway.

A number of the roads will dead-end at the salinas or turn into pedestrian pathways, necessitating turning around and retracing your route to the next through street.

Many of the houses in these two neighbourhoods are painted in eye-catching colour combinations of pink, purple, green, yellow, turquoise, or orange.

Most of the really colourful houses seem to be on the streets with bird names; streets named Flamenco, Fragata, Garza Azul, Garza Blanca, Cormoran, and Aquila. I also discovered a few on Manglero (Raccoon Street).

Unfortunately, not all the streets have visible signage. Time + sea salt = disintegration of everything metal.

Don't assume you will always find a name for the road you are driving on. Our road-trip theory has always been: if you don't know where you are headed, you can't get lost. Just enjoy the experience.

And as we all know, driving in the tropical heat can be thirsty work. Oscar's Pizza & Restaurante is on the main road, Rueda Medina. Along the roadside entrance are a dozen or so huge wooden chairs made from the trunks of trees with twisted branches forming the back and arms.

It's a good place to have a cool beverage, and if you are lucky enough to be there after 5:00 in the afternoon when Michael and the crew fire up the pizza ovens, well, the New York-style pizzas are amazing, as are the delicious garlic knots. Garlic knots; another favourite food group in our house!

Get out there and explore the island. You will be glad you did.

Hasta luego,

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Friday, May 2, 2014

The late-afternoon "ah" factor

End of the day ritual

It's become our end-of-the-day ritual, sipping a glass of wine and watching the sun set on another great day. Ah!

The island has many great locations to watch the sunset. Most of our favourite places are on the waterfront facing towards Cancun or Isla Blanca, locations where the brilliant colours of the setting sun are splashed on the ocean and echoed on nearby reflective surfaces.

2002 at Villa Makax on west side of Isla

Our first trip to Isla Mujeres was in 2002. We stayed on the west side of the island at Villa Makax and the Rolandi Hotel.

At that time, golf cart rentals were not very common, so we seldom left the neighbourhood. I have very pleasant memories of standing barefoot in the surf with my glass of wine, waiting for the sunset, and we all know good memories induce return visits.

We returned to Isla in 2005, after taking a trip to Bali, and then, as it turns out, one final vacation on the Pacific coast of Mexico. We decided that Isla was better, much better!

2005 Sunset Grill view

On our second trip, we explored more of the island, discovering other restaurants such as Sunset Grill at the north end of the island and Casa O's near the southern end of the island.

2009 Lawrie at Casa O's Restaurante

Both restaurants were delightfully romantic places to spend a few hours savouring good food and beautiful sunsets.
(The Casa O's property was sold a couple of years ago and has been converted to a lovely private home.)

View near Brisas Grill and BallyHoo

Now that we are full-time islanders, we have several other favourite places.

A table on the beach at Brisas Grill on Rueda Medina is the perfect location to watch the sun ignite the sky with fiery pinks, oranges and reds before slowly extinguishing itself in the ocean.

At Ballyhoo, we usually try to grab the corner table to really appreciate the evening display.

Besides the great show of the sun going down, there are usually boats coming and going, kids hanging out with friends, and fishermen bringing in their catch. There is always something to see, to photograph.

Sunset view from Soggy Peso dock

A little further south on the island are other good locations for sunset watching. We are very partial to the Soggy Peso Bar & Grill, especially since the two large derelict boats that were blocking the great view have been towed away and turned into reusable scrap.

Sitting on the dock with a glass of wine is such a relaxing way to end the day - watching kayakers and boaters enjoying a last bit of evening light.

Jeff Current at Marina Paraiso

More recently, Barlito's at Marina Paraiso has turned into another favourite sundowner hangout for us, especially on Friday nights when Jeff Current is belting out great beach tunes. The location is spectacular.

The jewel-toned lights hanging randomly from overhead tree branches create a whimsical atmosphere. The lights are far more romantic than the unfortunately standard fluorescent tube fixtures found in a number of local restaurants. Recently, Barlito's has added tall bistro-style tables and chairs tucked under tiny waterfront palapas, making the sunset viewing even better.

My waiter, sharing the rooftop view

We have one more favourite sunset location on the island. It's private. Exclusive. Our rooftop deck.

It's a great place for sunset viewing, for the late-afternoon "ah" factor; however, efficient bar service at this location is always a challenge.

The waiter grumbles when I ask for a refill. He has to trek down thirty-eight stairs to the kitchen refrigerator and back up thirty-eight stairs. Sigh!

It's a good thing I know him quite well.

Cheers,
Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas the Cat

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Friday, February 7, 2014

It's a big one, a really big one! Isla Mujeres Artist Fair

Betsy Snider

There is lively music, yummy food, and colourful things to buy; it's the monthly Artist Fair in the Square, showcasing food and any number of beautifully made items.

Islanders Tiffany Yenawine Wareing and Bard Wareing have consistently promoted local and visiting artists, organizing a monthly fair to showcase handmade wares.

Kitty Goldberg

Originally situated outside their Bakery and Cafe on Hidalgo Avenue, the idea quickly outgrew its street corner location. Tonight, there were seventy-four vendors scheduled to be in the public square. That's huge!

Slowly working our way through the crowd, we managed to chat with a few of the artists, purchasing beautiful note cards from photographer Kitty Goldberg, more doggie treats from Bessie Hamaker, and a yummy Moon Pie treat from Rossmery Avila. Besides being a convenient place to find unique items, the fair is a handy location to chat and socialize with friends.

Red Cross crew, and a new doctor

We even had our blood pressure checked by the Red Cross ambulance crew, and met the new doctor who will be working at the Red Cross office.

Other artists that I had not seen before included Timothy Fisher from Cornwall, Vermont, who brought his whimsical acrylic and fabric paintings.

Photographer Susan Pacek has recently published a book of photographs that I have seen for sale in a few locations on the island.

Penny D. Burnham - author

Dhante Loyola, a local artist and instructor, displayed several of his colourful paintings. Jan Gerken, a graphic designer, was showcasing an eye-catching collection of note cards and beautiful scarves.

New author Penny D. Burnham had several copies of her novel Jaded Diamond. The book is of special interest to islanders as it is set on Isla Mujeres.

While we were admiring Betsy Snider's colourful candle holders and jewelry, I asked if Tony was around. She smiled and pointed to the top of the church.

"Up there!"

Capt Tony perched on church roof

Camera in hand, Tony Garcia, affectionately known as Captain Tony, was precariously perched on the roof. By the time I have this article written, he will have any number of photos already posted to his Facebook page.

Betsy and Tony are getting married next weekend. Sneaking another peek at her soon-to-be groom, I think she was wondering if he was going to be all in one piece for the wedding.

In the busy whirl of overseeing the fair, I eventually caught up with Tiffany for a quick chat. I asked her what her biggest challenge was with creating the Isla Mujeres Artist Fair.

She said it is getting the local population to trust her and believe in the event. It's a slow process, but it's working.

Seventy-four vendors! Yep, we agree that whatever you are doing, Tiffany, is working. Congratulations to you and your hard-working helpers.

Dhante Loyola

Hasta luego
Lynda, Lawrie, Thomas, Sparky, and Princess Chica

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.