A once in a life time happening – er, depending on your age

Monday June 20th Summer Solstice & Full Moon

The Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year, and a full moon, both happened on Monday June 20^th.  It’s a once in a life-time event, depending on your age and the time zone that you live in.  

The last time this event occurred was in 1948.  Lawrie was six and I wasn’t even a gleam in my father’s eye, so we decided we should commemorate the night in style. 

Sunrise

No, we didn’t dance naked around a bonfire while howling at the moon, but we did cook a yummy steak dinner and open a special bottle of Argentinian Malbec.  Three weeks of a boring low-carb, alcohol-free diet were tossed out with the wine cork.  Heck, this might be the last summer solstice, full moon in our lifetime.  Let’s go crazy! 

Mid-afternoon on Rueda Medina

Even Mother Nature was in a celebratory mood.  After five days of grey and damp weather we had sun, glorious sun enticing flocks of day-trippers from the hotel zone in Cancun to the island.  

It seemed that every one of the thousand-plus rental golf carts were out on the roads, overloaded with tourists.  (There is one perplexing trait in a high percentage of visitors; they feel compelled to holler and yell when touring in a golf cart.  Why is that?)  

Street Vendors out in full force

Rental bicycles, and motor-scooters jammed the roadway, filling spaces between the golf carts.   Boats coming into the harbour were at their maximum capacity for passengers.  Amazing considering just a few years ago the island was deserted from the end of spring break until students were released for summer vacations.  Local hotels have been reporting record-breaking occupancy rates for the entire year.  There doesn’t seem to be a slow season on Isla Mujeres anymore.

Hundreds and hundreds of golf carts

A quick drive around the island Monday afternoon confirmed that the popular beaches were packed with sun-worshipers in an assortment of sizes and ages.  

Everyone appeared to be enjoying the warm water and brilliant sunshine.  Restaurant waiters hustled to and fro with drinks and food. They don’t seem to have a problem keeping their weight at a manageable level; back and forth trudging through the hot sand hundreds of times a day.  It’s a great workout.

 

Summer Solstice on Rueda Medina 2011

We spent the evening watching the sunset from our street side deck, then slipped over to the ocean side upper deck to enjoy the moon rise.  

Last Monday’s balmy weather, another glass of fabulous red wine, and great company was a perfect way to celebrate this rare evening.   And, yes, we are back to our boring low-carb, alcohol-free diet – for at least another month.

The next summer solstice full moon is predicted for 2062.  Lawrie will be 120 years old.  He says he’ll be there celebrating!  Me, at 111 years old?  I’ll probably still be battling fat cells.

Hasta Luego

Lynda & Lawrie

Our favourite oceanside deck - full moon rising

Paradise from another perspective – Wow, just wow!

Amazing starfish shape!

Did you know that the five, red pathways at Punta Sur Isla Mujeres are actually in the shape of a starfish? 

We didn’t.  

It’s a bit like discovering the three thousand year-old chalk image in the hills of England is really an ancient 360-foot long rendition of a white horse.  

Okay, maybe it’s not that notable, but for us the starfish was very cool to see.  

Caution - the four carbon-fiber blades are powerful

Expat David Daniel captured the image with his newest boy-toy: a DJI Phantom 3 UAV.  Also known by the misnomer of drone, the UAV Unmanned Aerial Vehicle or UAS Unmanned Aircraft System comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. 

Highly conscious of the potential danger of the remote-controlled UAV, 

David pointed out the four whirling carbon-fiber blades as they spun up, lifting the vehicle aloft.  

David: It's easy to fly this UAV

Then with a noise akin to a hive of active bees the aircraft sailed away, hovering off the southern point of Isla Mujeres as it broadcast streaming video to David’s I-Pad.  

Woohoo!  What beautiful images.  

Wow!  Isla Mujeres from Punta Sur

For both David and Diane Daniel traditional photography is an outlet for their creativity, and operating the UAV gives David yet another instrument for crafting beautiful images.

At Punta Sur, a family of curious Argentinian tourists quickly gathered around David as he manoeuvred the UAV for better images.  

Apparently interested curiosity is a familiar reaction, typically with the technology savvy under-thirty crowd, and especially Europeans. 

Images difficult to see in bright sunlight

When operating the remote controlled device he and Diane are mindful to not intrude on anyone privacy.  They don’t buzz low over crowds, or deliberately focus on individuals.  

David said even with the new advanced cameras measuring distance from space is difficult.  A few times they used the UAV to try to locate a pod of dolphins that cavort along the eastern side of the island, only to discover that pinpointing a fast moving six-foot creature is nearly impossible.  On the other hand, flying around a stationary object is a breeze. 

Diane Daniel, keeping our very hot dog Sparky company

UAV’s are primarily fun toys used for taking great videos or stills from a vantage point normally unavailable to photographers.  They also have useful commercial applications; for instance when two Canadian friends recently decided to sell their home and the real estate company immediately scheduled an aerial photo session with a UAV.  

It’s the new standard for real estate listings.  David says he operates his UAV just for the enjoyment. 

My photo of David's DJI Phantom 3 UAV 

Currently the UAV’s owned by individuals now vastly outnumber military drones, with estimates of over a million sold by 2015.  The popularity has created a few hazards, necessitating new laws to govern their use.  Whether you refer to them as drones, UAV’s or a UAS they are banned within five miles of airports worldwide, and prisons in a number of countries.  The newer models are equipped with updated software that has no fly zones, or hot spots, prohibiting the vehicle from lifting off.  Older version still exist prompting many countries to erect signage at airports forbidding the use of this type of equipment. 

The drone's photo of me taking its photo

It turns out our home is within that five mile radius of our local almost-abandoned, and seldom-used airport. So no high-flying photographs of our casa.  It’s probably a good thing, I think our ‘dainties’ were still hanging on the laundry line.

If you would like to see more great photographs and videos visit David and Diane’s New Nomad’s Facebook page.  Here’s the link.  https://www.facebook.com/NewNomads/?fref=ts

Their photography will wow you!

Hasta Luego

Lynda & Lawrie

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Come to papa!  David Daniel and his new toy.

A thirsty weekend - election time in Mexico

2016 candidate Juan Carillo in centre - won election

The liquor departments in the grocery stores are roped off.  Large signs proclaim: No alcohol sales today.  

The local cantinas and neighbourhood beer stores are closed up tight.  Good grief!  This is Mexico.  Normally beer and bottled coolers are sold in every corner store, all year around.  

What’s happening? 

2016 Media truck 

Well, it is election time and Mexico has a dry law, ley seca, prohibiting the sale of alcohol on the weekend of the elections.  This year it fell on Saturday June 4^th and Sunday June 5^th.  The good thing is if you are a foreigner, not a Mexican national, you can still access your favourite beverage in bars and restaurants that cater primarily to tourists.  The fine to the business owner for selling alcohol to a Mexican national during the election weekend is 50,000 pesos!  Yikes.  That’s a lot of lost profit for a two dollar cerveza.

2010 political signs painted on wall

The rotation of the three-year terms for Municipal Presidente, and the six-year term for the State Governors are coming to an end.  National President Enrique Peña Nieto’s term started December 1^st 2012 and runs until 2018, at which time he is ineligible to run again for this office.  It is also the law in Mexico that once a candidate fills a position, he or she cannot run again in the following election for the same position.  They can try their luck with a different municipality, or perhaps the Senate.  In the following election cycle, three or six years later, the previously elected official is allowed to run for re-election.

2013 PAN party parade

The election weekend is preceded by a boisterous few weeks of parades, car-mounted loud-speaker announcements and of course speeches; lots of speeches making politically-motivated pledges that, like any political promise, may or may not come to fruition.  

It’s what politicians the world-over do.  

Promise heaven and earth, yet deliver only air.

2013 Alicia Rincalde - it rained on the parade

The evenings leading up to the June election are typically punctuated with beeping moto and car horns, loud music, cheering supporters and hundreds of participants parading in various locations around the island.  Because our home is situated on a main road, the parades invariably pass us at some point during the procession.  We are not Mexican citizens, and therefore can’t vote, but it is very entertaining to watch the process.  Canadian elections are much more subdued relying primarily on television advertising and televised debates.  This loud and crazy stuff is a lot more fun.

2013 buzzing around the annual fishing tournament

In 2013 a very large parade for the PAN party was led by several young people on in-line-skates waving over-sized flags, trailed by a cadre of bicycle riders and a drum corp.  Next came the walking contingent lead by the candidate and followed by the inevitable motos, golf carts and vehicles.  Everyone was cheering, waving and yelling their candidate’s name.  Organized chaos.

Typically there are brightly-coloured signs painted on every available flat surface, and posters hung from light-poles or posts.  Three years ago one candidate had her full length image mounted on corrugated plastic boards that popped up all over the island, even during the annual fishing tournament.  Three small boats were hired to circulate around and around the tournament docks with her image standing proudly in the bow.  We thought it was an inventive idea.

2013 Agapito Magaña won the election 

Sunday June 5^th was Election Day this year and it was a very quiet, subdued campaign.  We were barely aware it was happening.  We only saw one parade for each of the two major candidates.  According to a local source there are now limits how much money can be spent on promotions, a direct result of too signs and posters unclaimed after the 2013 campaign leaving the municipality with the cost of cleanup.  

Even the traditional victory parade for the winning candidate didn’t happen this year. 

2016 Juan Carillo PRI parade

Well at least we didn’t have to worry about being thirsty this past weekend.  We had wisely re-stocked our fridge with cold cervezas and wine.  Only to start alcohol-free diets on the following Monday. Talk about bad timing!  But as I like to say: fat cells have GPS.  No matter how many times we lose them – they find us again.  It’s time to send those fat cells packing, yet again. 

2019 will be the next municipal election for Presidente.  We are looking forward to the chaos and the parades.

Hasta Luego

The End of an Era – Magaña scheduled passenger ferry service suspended

Magaña boats January 2006

Isla Mujeres, the Island of Women, is a small island floating in the Caribbean Sea.  Boats have always been an integral part of its history. 

Dating back to the 1550’s the days of the Spanish explorers, and first the settlement on Isla, fishing pangas, and large sailing ships were the main mode of transportation.  Later as technology advanced, and more people discovered Isla Mujeres private yachts, passenger ferries, car ferries and tour boats became part of the rhythm of island life.  So, when the original passenger ferry operators recently announced that they were suspending service it signified the end of an era. 

Magaña boats out of service May 2016

The two passenger ferries are now tied up at their family wharf in the lagoon and the employees have received their final wages.  The bigger party boat the Caribbean Princess is still plying the waters between the mainland and Isla, bringing day-trippers from the hotel zone in Cancun, but the regular hourly departures from Isla and Cancun are finished.  A victim of economics and stiff competition from the newer, sleeker UltraMar flotilla.

Larger and newer UltraMar boats - the competition 

When we first visited the island in 2002, the Magaña boats were the only option, and I must admit even though I don’t typically suffer from seasickness, riding the Caribbean Miss was a smelly, stomach churning experience as the vessel rolled through the waves, while clouds of smoky diesel fumes infiltrated the passenger area.  We gladly switched over to the more stable, catamaran-style UltraMar service when it became available.

Repainted in 2012 - nicked named the Barney-Boats

Over a period of ten years the UltraMar has added more and larger ships to their fleet, while the older Magaña transportation company retained their original vessels.  The once familiar white, blue and red ferry boats were repainted in 2012 with what was light-heartedly referred to as the Barney-Boat colours of purple and green.  It was an attempt to ‘jazz up’ the image of the aging ships, and attract more customers.  Sadly the new colours didn’t improve the ride or the service.

Sultana del Mar from Recuerdeos de Isla Mujeres FB 

But the most fascinating ship owned by the Magaña transportation company is the Sultana del Mar.  

We have written about her before as islanders such as Vivian Reynaldo, Dan Kane, Abby and Neil Fox, and boat captain Javier Velázquez Euan have shared their personal stories about traveling to Isla Mujeres back in the day.

Mario Burgos Sánchez

There are more stories about the Sultana del Mar posted on the Facebook page Recuerdeos de Isla Mujeres.  Islander Cuauhtémoc Zufita Landero in collaboration with our local historian Fidel Villanueva Madrid have been adding fascinating narratives about Isla’s past.  

A Google translation works fairly well translating the Spanish to English, but we still struggle with the finer details of the stories.  

Of particular interest to me is the story about Mario Burgos Sánchez, Carpintero de Ribera, the master carpenter who built the hull of the Sultana del Mar with ‘good wood, the right tools, and his hands.’

The Sultana del Mar was a grand old dame that is currently a sinking wreck.  Slowly, month by month she is sliding further beneath the waves taking a piece of island history with her. 

Sultana del Mar - May 2016  L.Lock photo

It is the end of a simpler time.  

A time when life was slower, unhurried.

Hasta Luego

Lynda & Lawrie

Isla Holbox – a different kind of paradise

Isla Holbox Yucatan Mexico

Isla Holbox is a little island off the coast of Mexico, similar to the island in Mexico we call home.  

Just a twenty minute ride on the passenger ferries from Chiquilá on the mainland, Isla Holbox is nestled in the mint green water of the Gulf of Mexico.  As the crow flies it’s not far from Isla Mujeres, where we are surrounded by the turquoise Caribbean Sea, but it’s a world away in atmosphere.

Golf cart taxi on Holbox

Arriving on the island a bright yellow, golf-cart taxi drove us along sand covered streets to our beachfront hotel, Holbox Dream, on the eastern side of the island.  

Okay, we could have walked the six or so blocks dragging our suitcases through the mid-day heat, but this was our first time to Isla Holbox and we didn’t yet have our bearings.  A short inexpensive taxi ride was a great solution.   

Cool, clean and good staff!

We were warmly greeted by Benjamin at the front desk, and quickly checked into our rooms.  

Nice and cool.  Simple décor.  And clean.

After freshening up it was time to look for a good dinner location.  

Viva Zapata for dinner

The local favourite is Viva Zapata, just a short walk from our hotel.  

It’s an attractive location with traditional Mexican dishes, oodles of fresh fish choices and tasty steaks.

Ambling around the town after dinner we noticed the fun artwork painted on homes, stores, and businesses.  

One of the Holbox murals - L. Lock photo

Our friends Becky and Craig McHugh were recently on Holbox, and her blog Life's a Beach, features many of the colourful murals.  Here’s the link if you would like to see her collection of photographs: http://lifewithbeck.blogspot.mx/  

By the time our bedtime rolled around our hotel was quiet, with the assorted vacationing pre-schoolers tucked up in bed and snoozing soundly.  

Another one of my favourite murals - L. Lock photo

We had a restful night, even though I must admit the two small pillows on the bed were thin, and well, darn it, just too small.  I have a thing about pillows.  

Even though we didn’t take our pooch, Sparky, with us I still woke up at the regular walk-the-dog time of 5:30 and I was impatient to get going.  

Strangely enough my three travel companions, Lawrie, John and Maia, insisted on staying in bed until the sun was properly up and the smell of brewing coffee wafting in the air.  Hmph! 

Le Jardin Bakery - dogs welcome

Once everyone was up and dressed we walked two short blocks to the Le Jardin bakery for fortifying coffees, warm flaky pastries, and other delicious breakfast items.  Hugely popular with locals and tourists the line-ups start well before opening time.  Normal low season hours are 8:30 to 12:30 Wednesday to Saturday, but be warned, they close when they run out of their freshly baked goods.  They also have a communal dog water-bowl and welcome signs for the many furry, four-legged companions on the island.  We noticed several establishments with water bowls available for any passing dog, cat or bird.  It’s a thoughtful idea.

42 kilometres - primarily nature preserve

Mid-morning we decided to rent a golf cart and explore the island.  Isla Holbox is a mostly-undeveloped, low profile, sand-bar that is about 42 kilometres (26 miles) long and 1.5 kilometres (0.9 miles) wide.  That’s huge compared to Isla Mujeres at 7 kilometres long.  

Centro - Isla Holbox

We located a golf cart rental company near the square in centro, renting by the hour for $150.00 Mexican pesos: cheap!   We paid for two hours and off we tootled bumping over the sand-packed dips and hollows created by rain storms and vehicles.  Unlike Isla Mujeres there are not many fast drivers on Isla Holbox.  We actually had to speed up keep the golf-cart from stalling as we crossed over the one speed-reducing tope that we did find.  Most of the islanders get around on bicycles, motos, ATV’s and of course golf carts. 

Two choices of passenger ferries - same price

And then it was time to head back to Isla Mujeres.  We checked out of our hotel, and began our four hour arrival journey in reverse.  First the golf-cart taxi ride back to the passenger ferry.  Then a twenty minute boat ride to the mainland community of Chiquilá, where we walked two blocks to Don Patricio’s parking lot, to retrieve our rental car.  

One of several parking lots for Isla Holbox visitors

We didn’t take our Mini-Cooper convertible on this road trip.  We needed something a little bit roomier for four people and two travel bags.  Lawrie found an inexpensive rental car at Car-Flex located in the La Isla Shopping centre in Cancun.  Pepe, the customer representative, was amazingly helpful.  The total cost was $100.00 USD for three days including insurance.  Great deal. 

Car-flex rental - $100.00 USD 3 days

Next we drove via Highway 5 back towards the little community of Kantunilkin, through a bit of road construction that, in typical local fashion, lets the drivers decide which side of the work zone they would like to drive on.  

It was a bit of a free-for-all, but eventually we got through it.  From there it was another hour negotiating through numerous speedbumps and topes in three tiny unmarked villages.  Pressing on towards Nuevo Valladolid my bladder was starting to make suggestions that we find a rest stop, or baños soon.  Very soon.  

John's turn to drive, with Maia navigating

We turned south once we reached Nuevo Valladolid on Highway 180 and stopped at the PeMex outside the of town of Leona Vicario.  Closed for renovations, no baños!  Okay, then.  We continued on to the outskirts of Cancun, coming in on Avenida Lopez Portillo heading towards the UltraMar ferry docks at Puerto Juarez.  My bladder is now becoming quite insistent. 

Motorcycle based transportation in small towns

Lawrie parked the rental car in the UltraMar parkade.  He, John and Maia headed towards the boarding line.  I raced for the baños, and double-timed it back to the ferry dock.  We slid on-board as the ramps were being raised.  Headed home!

We enjoyed our quick visit to the quaint little community of Isla Holbox, but also really enjoyed returning to our little slice of paradise on Isla Mujeres. 

Hasta Luego

Lynda & Lawrie

Centro - Isla Holbox