Can you get from here to there? Isla Mujeres Mexico

Playa Norte

Reading TripAdvisor can be a trip (old 1970s hippie saying, in case you are too young to remember). 

On the website, there are dozens of questions from people who are first-time travellers to Isla Mujeres. 

Recently, somebody asked: Can I walk all the way around the island on the waterfront?

Well, yes, and no ….. You can walk all the way around on fairly decent sidewalks that were upgraded or newly built in 2009, but the waterfront is another thing entirely. 

Playa Posada L Lock Photo

The waterfront in Mexico is considered federal property, and in theory, you are allowed to cross it, but in some locations, it is just not possible.

If you start at the easy part, the sugar-white sandy beach at the north end, Playa Norte and head south on the west side of the island, you can walk a good distance past restaurants, bars, marinas, and the two passenger ferry docks. 

West side - lots of restaurants, bars and boats

Assuming you can actually pass the bars without stopping at each establishment to check out the degree of coldness for their beer, you could walk for at least twenty minutes before you start running into bigger man-made obstacles.

Your trek will consist of smooth sandy beaches interspersed with mooring lines for the numerous fishing pangas. A lot of high-stepping, rope-hopping is required. 

Zigging and zagging around the fishermen and boats

It's great exercise for the glutes, I'm told. 

When you reach the area in front of the Naval base – that's the large white fenced compound on Medina Avenue – you will have to detour around this restricted area, and use the sidewalks. 

On the south side of the car ferry terminal, there are more fishing-boat lines to hop over and guard dogs to avoid, three fun bars where you can cool off, a handful of restaurants, and several marinas. 

Makax Lagoon - marinas & boats, not pedestrian-friendly

 In the area between Playita Isla Mujeres (formerly Chuuk Kay Restaurante) and the all-inclusive Palace Royale Resort, you will have to use the sidewalks. The properties on this stretch of waterfront face onto the marshy Makax Lagoon. Unless you happen to be wielding a sharp machete, this area is not pedestrian-friendly. Plus, the dense mangrove jungle is home to millions of mosquitoes and other unpleasant critters. So hit the concrete and continue walking south.

Capitan Dulce Restaurante & Museum

You might want to re-hydrate with another cold beverage at Playa Lancheros, or a little further along at Capitan Dulce Restaurante and Museum. In this area, on the western side of Isla Mujeres, there are many large tracts of private land owned by beach clubs and small hotels. A number of these properties have all-inclusive entrance fees and have made it difficult to access the beach.

Garrafon Natural Reef Park, private walkway

At Garrafon Natural Reef Park, you will definitely have to use the sidewalks. The private concrete pathway beneath the rugged cliffs is only accessible by paying the park entrance fee. This pathway connects with Punta Sur, the southernmost part of the island, and coincidentally, the most eastern part of Mexico. The entrance fee for Punta Sur is only about $2.00 USD and is well worth the cost.

Punta Sur walking path. Keep back from the cliff edge!

The most scenic path along this part of the island is a well-worn track that starts at Punta Sur. It skirts the friable edge of the cliffs, ambles in front of private homes, and rejoins the main road near the waste transfer station. (Yes, unfortunately, a place to collect refuse is a necessary evil, even on an island in paradise.) 

Beach along eastern side - near Guadalupana

The pathway slowly descends until once again the beach front is accessible. Built several years ago, there is a nice sidewalk that continues on past the newer cemetery, the Guadalupaňa settlement, Isla 33 Condos, Villa la Bella B&B, and a cluster of tasty restaurants: Caribbean Brisas, Bahama Mama, and Mango Café. If you have experienced what the island sidewalks can look like after a big storm or a hurricane, you will appreciate that this one is smooth and relatively stumble-proof.

Beautiful glass wall looks out over the ocean

Then starting at the beautiful glass-fronted Catholic church across the street from the Mango Café, waterfront hiking becomes more interesting. 

It is possible to clamber over rocks and around obstacles, eventually coming out at the new skateboard park near Casa Ixchel Hotel.

Behind the AguaKan pumping station

From the skateboard park all the way to the Naval airport, the oceanfront is relatively easy to traverse. Part sand, part round pieces of coral, interspersed with rocky outcroppings, the beach meanders past private homes, with a few municipal exits/access points where you can leave the beach and use sidewalks if you choose.

Malécon seawall walkway 

Past the naval base, make a turn towards the sea, and behind the AguaKan pumping station is a wonderfully wide malécon, a walkway, perfect for strolling and enjoying the view of turquoise water. This is our favourite place to walk and check out what's happening in the neighbourhoods. The malécon will take you all the way to Playa Media Luna, and a few steps away from the start of your journey at Playa Norte, where once again you can re-hydrate with a cold beverage.

Playa Media Luna 

If this trek sounds too exhausting, you might want to consider a shorter excursion, a Sea Glass Adventure Hike with our friend Daryl Adler. The hike takes anywhere from one to two hours, depending on your level of fitness or your interest in hunting sea glass. 

 Perhaps you'll find a piece of glass, discarded by the pirates who visited Isla Mujeres many years ago.

Vintage Sea Marble ring - Daryl Adler

Originally from Seattle, Washington, Daryl moved to Isla about three and a half years ago. When the Artist Fair is on, from November to April, you will find Daryl and his display of water colours, or beautifully handcrafted sterling silver jewelry featuring unique sea marbles and one-of-a-kind pieces of sea glass.

So, you see, you actually can get from here to there, but I'm worn out writing about all of this activity. I think I will join my sweetie on the patio for a cold glass of wine and watch the sunset. Ah!

Hasta luego, Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas the Cat

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The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky

A dog's eye view of Isla Mujeres, by Sparky

 

Sparky - I adopted my people December 2011

Hi! My name is Sparky, and I thought you might be interested in a tour of Isla from my point of view. 

Oh sure, my humans are always taking pretty pictures of what they see, but I think it's time to show you my island, Isla Mujeres, or as I call it: La Isla de los Perros.

Sparky and his Servant

I'll start by introducing you to some of my friends, and then we'll explore my favourite places in my golf cart. Yup! It's my golf cart. Well, that's what I tell my friends. 

Okay, maybe it's not really my golf cart. We get to use it when other family members don't need it, and besides, dogs can't own vehicles. I won't tell if you don't tell. It will be our little secret. Okay? Great!

Bowser, Sombra & Sparky on the beach near our house

My closest friend is my housemate, Thomas the Cat.  

He's pretty famous. He has his own book written about him, but I know a second book is being created that will star both Thomas and me. 

That's right! I'm going to be famous too, soon, very soon. The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky. Pretty cool. Don't you think? My other two good friends are Sombra and Bowser. They live quite close to my house. We have lots of fun playing together.

Sparky and his friend, Lola, at Playa Norte

Since I adopted my people last year, I have had lots of fun experiences. Every day I swim in the ocean. We used to go early in the morning to Playa Norte so that I could swim without worrying about big waves slapping me in the face. I don't like getting salt water in my eyes. And sometimes at the beach, I would meet other dogs who were walking with their humans. We would have fun playing in the water before we went in separate directions. However, the rules have changed. (I don't like rules. They ruin a dog's fun.)

Running in mud is almost as much fun as swimming

The signs posted at Playa Norte have that weird symbol – a circle with a red slash through a picture of a dog. Apparently, it means no dogs allowed. But the words underneath say that if my people keep me on a leash, and pick up my – um, poop, I can go to the beach. But whenever we try to go for a swim, we meet all sorts of cranky folks who don't want me there, so we have found other places I can play.

Cliffs at Punta Sur

My second-favourite thing to do is run. My humans sometimes drive me in my golf cart to Punta Sur – at the southern end of the island. There is a trail that follows the tops of the cliffs, where I can run as fast as I want, and I won't bother anyone. The only thing I have to remember is not to get too close to the edge of the cliffs, because sometimes things break off and slide a long, long way down to the deep water. I wouldn't want that to happen to me. I can swim, but the waves at Punta Sur are really big, and sometimes huge sea turtles or dolphins are swimming there. Scary!

 Carnitas Zinapecuaro - tasty pork, and fresh juice

When my people take me out in the golf cart, I like to hang my nose out over the edge and let my Spaniel-type ears flap in the cool breeze. It's a great way to see and smell the interesting sights of Isla Mujeres. 

Just up the street from our house is one of my favourite stops. It's the place where they sell cooked pork. My human sometimes stops on our way home and buys a small package of the delicious meat. If I am really, really good, she will give me a little piece as a treat. I can also woof at other dogs as we pass, letting them know that I'm out in my golf cart. Look at me! Some of the dogs get jealous and chase us, barking loudly. I don't let it bother me. I just look at them running along, tongues hanging out and think, lucky, lucky me.

Lucky, lucky me!

Besides the golf cart, did I mention that we owned a boat? Well, we shared it with other people, but I think it really was my boat. Boats are as much fun as golf carts; you get to see different parts of the island, and you can go swimming anywhere you want. No rules! 

One day we travelled around the island. We saw Playa Norte, Playa Media Luna, the turtle release beach, our house, Punta Sur, Garrafon Reef Park, Playa Indio, and then motored back to the marina in Makax Lagoon. 

We got quite wet when the waves splashed us, but it sure was fun.

Sunset cocktails at Ballyhoo

Another place I like to visit is Isla Mujeres Horseback Riding stables on the southwest side of the island. 

 There are a bunch of pretty horses that people pay to ride, which, I guess, is interesting if you are a human. 

I am more interested in the chickens. I want to chase them, but I'm not allowed. It's those darn rules again: No chasing chickens! Pfft!

Chillin' at the Soggy Peso Bar & Grill

Another fun activity I enjoy is going out to lunch or sunset cocktails with my humans. So far, I have visited Barlito's @ Marina Paraiso Hotel, Ballyhoo Restaurant, and the Soggy Peso Bar & Grill. 

As long as I am on my leash, well-behaved, and my human picks up my – um, you know, deposits, I am welcome. 

 Sometimes on hot days, I sit right in front of the big fan at the Soggy Peso, and cool down while my people are chilling with a cold beverage.

Roof-top alarm system

Since I have mostly told you about different places on my island, I should also mention some of the jobs that we dogs have. We are all watchdogs and alarm systems, giving our humans a warning bark if someone comes near the house. 

One lucky guy, a black and brown German shepherd, works for the Navy. He is in charge of sniffing out drugs that people might try to sneak onto our little island in paradise. He's a serious guy and doesn't like having his face photographed, so I can't show you how good-looking he is. You will just have to take my word for it. 

Navy drug dog and Marinas

There are also two pretty Golden Labradors who guard the Navy airport runway and tower. 

I'm a bit jealous of their important jobs, but then they don't get to ride around in a golf cart. I have the better deal.

Anyway, that's my view of Isla Mujeres. If you see me out and about on the island, stop and say hello. I'm very friendly.

Woof, woof, oooooo!  See ya soon!

Sparky (aka The Sparkinator!)

Sparkinator sharing his boat with his lucky humans

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Then and now; Dan Kane’s photos of Isla Mujeres, Mexico

Dan Kane - transplanted islander

“What is happening to my little Isla?” Recent arrivals moan. Change! Inevitable change. When you look back on the photo collections of other Isleños, the island has always been changing.  

This idyllic palm-strewn sandbar in the Caribbean Sea was discovered by the Mayans, then Spaniards, then Mexicans, and finally world-travellers of many different nationalities.

A transplanted islander, Dan Kane, recently reminded me that he has a collection of photos taken back in the 1970s and early 1980s. They are fun photos of thin, earnest young men with longish hair and pop-star-style moustaches.  

Earnest young men with pop-star moustaches

The southern view from the balcony of their room at the Rocamar shows a remarkable open area where our house and the houses of my neighbours are now situated. 

The view north, behind the two men, shows the large hotel known over the years by four different names, including the Presidente and the Avalon.

Upper balcony of Rocamar  Hotel looking south

Some of the photos capture Playa Norte, or North Beach as an empty sweep of white sand, dotted with palm trees; no condos, no hotels, just sand and a couple of rustic beach restaurants.  

At the south end of the island, the Mayan temple to the Goddess IxChel stands alone, a sturdy sentinel against invaders. (The structure was much larger before the devastation of Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988.)  The statue garden has not been thought of, the newer lighthouse structure, gift store, and restaurant have yet to be built.  Neither Garrafon Natural Reef Park nor Dolphin Discovery exists.

Mayan structure before 1988 Hurricane Gilberto

Every person who discovers Isla changes it in some small way. Perhaps a tourist requests an item that was not available before, and an enterprising merchant imports it to the island. Perhaps a winter resident requires a new service, and a company steps in to supply it. 

Services that may have started out with simple things such as fax machines and photocopiers soon included cable internet, cell phones, internet cafes, or cash machines. Eventually, the island offered every modern convenience a traveller could dream up, including the recent Chedraui Super Store.

Isauro "Indio" Martinez Magaña 

Other historic pictures from Dan’s collection are of a very well-known former islander, "Indio", sharing his sailboat with friends. Isauro "Indio" Martinez Magaña passed away on August 14th of this year.  

He was part of the large, influential Magaña family and a cousin to our Presidente-elect, Agapito Magaña Sanchez.  

Many of you will remember Indio’s Beach on the south-western side of the island; a quiet, tucked-away area to enjoy food, beer, and perhaps a little nude sunbathing if you were so inclined.

North beach before the hotels, condos and restaurants

Most of us are careless with photos from our youth, never once believing that a quick snapshot of friends enjoying themselves could have any historic significance down the road. 

Perhaps in a few years, your personal photos will be the subject of another blogger’s musings.  

Cherish the memories – they are a bit of history happening before your eyes.

Thank you, Dan, for sharing your memories with us.

Hasta Luego 

Lynda and Lawrie

Murder. Mayhem. Revenge. Romance.

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky

The ups and downs of Garrafon Natural Reef Park

The distinctive sound of small metal wheels zinging on a thick metal wire, laughter, and whoops of joy; the sounds of riding the zip-line at Garrafon Natural Reef Park on the south end of Isla Mujeres. 

We recently spent a day there with John and his two boys, Ethan and Evan. It’s a handy location, right here on Isla, to entertain a couple of energetic youngsters for a few hours with a choice of snorkelling, kayaking, swimming in the pool, or riding the zip-line.

The scenery couldn’t be better, sunshine sparkling on turquoise blue water, feathery green palms, and sugar white sand. My version of heaven. 

Being permanent residents and in possession of a Mexican seniors’ card (unfortunately, yes, we qualify as seniors), Lawrie and I were able to secure a 25% price reduction for our entry fee. John and Ethan were the regular price, while Evan was in the 50% off age range. 

The snorkelling was interesting, especially with the new Canon underwater camera that John and the boys had with them. 

I tried it for a few photos and discovered that wearing a snorkelling mask made it almost impossible to compose a photo. You just have to point, shoot, and hope for the best.  

Predictably, we had several photos that included the tail-end of a pretty fish, or a kid-sized arm, or a big pink finger stuck over the lens. 

Still, it is something that is worth considering for future snorkelling adventures. John wisely attached a floatation device to the camera for the times when it might slip out of small and busy hands. 

Even though Garrafon Natural Reef Park opens at nine in the morning, the zip-lines don’t start up until eleven, so we spent the first hour snorkelling and fooling around in the two-person kayaks. These two activities and equipment are included in the entry price, while the zip-lines are an additional $10.00 US per person. 

The kayaks were fun for a few minutes, but the area they are confined to is quite small, allowing a couple of back-and-forth trips before it becomes repetitive. I accidentally strayed too far out of bounds and was promptly whistled back inside the boundary by the beach instructors. “Don’t go there!” Oops, sorry.

As it turns out, the big disappointment of the park was the zip-line rides; only one trip per person, and both boys had to be accompanied by one of the park instructors. The age for riding alone is thirteen and older, as the braking system consists of applying pressure to the metal lines with a wooden block. It is too primitive and difficult for younger hands. Last year at X-Plor, south of Cancun near Playa del Carmen, the boys were able to do the zip lines on their own, as that park has a better braking system.  Evan was so keen to ride the zip-lines that we convinced the instructors to use John’s ticket and then my ticket to give him two additional rides. Luckily, in Mexico, there is usually a creative way to get around most rules.

The other thing that was a little bit annoying was that the park had two different buffets set up, one for people who came in the main entrance, and a better one for the day-trippers from Cancun who arrived via the Garrafon company boats. 

The boys managed to find enough food to satisfy them after a morning of activities.

This sounds like we didn’t enjoy ourselves at all. But we did, and I bought the complete photo package to remember the fun.  

It’s just that having been to X-Plor last year, we are spoiled. The upside of Garrafon is the location, convenience for islanders, scenery, and it is less expensive than X-Plor. The downside is that we kept comparing the amenities to X-Plor, and Garrafon comes up short. 

Hasta luego,

Lynda and Lawrie

Grab your copy today!

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Or

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky