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Playa Norte |
Reading Trip Advisor, can be a trip
(old 1970's hippie saying, in case you are too young to remember).
On the website there are dozens of questions from people who are
first time travelers to Isla Mujeres.
Recently somebody asked: Can I
walk all the way around the island on the waterfront?
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Playa Posada |
Well, yes, and no ….. You can walk
all the way around on fairly decent sidewalks that were upgraded or
newly built in 2009, but the waterfront is another thing entirely.
The waterfront in Mexico is considered federal property and in theory
you are allowed to cross it, but in some locations it is just not
possible.
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West side - lots of restaurants, bars and boats |
If you start at the easy part, the
sugar-white sandy beach at the north end, Playa Norte and head south
on the west side of the island you can walk a good distance past
restaurants, bars, marinas, and the two passenger ferry docks.
Assuming you are able to actually pass the bars with out stopping at
each establishment to check out the degree-of-coldness
for their beer, you could walk for at least twenty minutes before you
start running into bigger man-made obstacles.
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Zigging and zagging around the fishermen and boats |
Your trek will consist of smooth
sandy beaches interspersed with mooring lines for the numerous
fishing pangas. A lot of high-stepping, rope-hopping is required.
Great exercise for the gluts,
I'm told. When you reach the area in front of the Naval base –
that's the large white fenced compound on Medina Avenue – you will
have to detour around this restricted area, and use the sidewalks.
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Makax Lagoon - marinas & boats, not pedestrian friendly |
On the south side of the car ferry
terminal there are more fishing-boat lines to hop over and guard dogs
to avoid, three fun bars where you can cool off, a handful of
restaurants, and several marinas. In the area between Playita Isla
Mujeres (formerly Chuuk Kay Restaurante) and all-inclusive Palace
Royale Resort you will have use the sidewalks. The properties on
this stretch of waterfront face onto the marshy Makax Lagoon. Unless
you happen to be wielding a sharp machete, this area is not
pedestrian friendly. Plus the dense mangrove jungle is home to
millions of mosquitoes and other unpleasant critters. So hit the
concrete and continue walking south.
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Capitan Dulce Restaurante & Museum |
You might want to re-hydrate with
another cold beverage at Playa Lancheros, or a little further along
at Capitan Dulce Restaurante and Museum. In this area, on the
western side on Isla Mujeres, there are many large tracts of private
land owned by beach clubs and small hotels. A number of these
properties have all-inclusive entrance fees and have made it
difficult to access the beach.
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Garrafon Natural Reef Park - private walkway |
At Garrafon Natural Reef Park you
will definitely have to use the sidewalks. The private concrete
pathway beneath the rugged cliffs is only accessible by paying the
park entrance fee. This pathway connects with Punta Sur, the
southern most part of the island and coincidentally the most eastern
part of Mexico. The entrance fee for Punta Sur is only about $2.00
USD and well worth the cost.
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Punta Sur walking path - keep back from the cliff edge! |
The most scenic path along this part
of the island is a well worn track that starts at Punta Sur. It
skirts the friable edge of the cliffs, ambles in front of private
homes, and re-joins the main road near the waste transfer station.
(Yes, unfortunately a place to collect refuse is a necessary evil,
even on an island in paradise.)
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Beach along eastern side - near Guadalupana |
The pathway slowly descends until
once again the beach front is accessible. Built several years ago
there is a nice sidewalk that continues on past the newer cemetery,
the Guadalupaňa
settlement, Isla 33 Condos, Villa la Bella B&B, and a cluster of
tasty restaurants: Caribbean Brisas, Bahama Mama, and Mango Café.
If you have experienced what the island sidewalks can look like
after a big storm or a hurricane you will appreciate that this one is
smooth, and relatively stumble-proof.
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Beautiful glass wall looks out over the ocean |
Then starting at the beautiful
glass-fronted Catholic church across the street from the Mango Café,
waterfront hiking becomes more interesting. It is possible to
clamber over rocks, and around obstacles eventually coming out at the
new skateboard park near Casa Ixchel Hotel.
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Behind the AguaKan pumping station |
From the skateboard park all the way
to the naval airport the oceanfront is relatively easy to traverse.
Part sand, part round pieces of coral, interspersed with rocky
outcroppings the beach meanders past private homes, with a few
municipal exits/access points where you can leave the beach and use
sidewalks if you choose.
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Malecon - seawall walkway |
Past the naval base, make a turn
towards the sea, and in behind the AguaKan pumping station is a
wonderfully wide malécon,
a walkway, perfect for strolling and enjoying the view of turquoise
water. This is our favourite place to walk and check out what's
happening in the neighbourhoods. The malécon
will take you all the way to Playa Media Luna, and a few steps away
from the start of your journey at Playa Norte, where once again you
can re-hydrate with a cold beverage.
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Playa Media Luna |
If this trek sounds too exhausting,
you might want to consider a shorter excursion, a Sea Glass Adventure
Hike with our friend Daryl Adler. The hike takes anywhere from one
to two hours, depending on your level of fitness, or your interest in
hunting sea glass. Perhaps you'll find a piece glass discarded by
the pirates who visited Isla Mujeres many years ago.
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Vintage Sea Marble ring - Daryl Adler |
Originally from Seattle Washington,
Daryl moved to Isla about three and a half years ago. When the
Artist Fair is on, November to April, you will find
Daryl with his
display of water colours, or beautifully handcrafted sterling silver
jewelry featuring unique sea marbles and one of a kind pieces of sea
glass.
So, you see you actually can get
from here to there, but I'm worn out writing about all of this
activity. I think I will join my sweetie on the patio for a cold
glass of wine, and watch the sunset. Ah!
Hasta
Luego
Lynda
& Lawrie
Breaking
News:
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Adventures of Thomas the Cat / Las Adventuras de Tomás
el Gato is now available on E-Books, via Amazon Kindle Books.
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2 comments:
Love this! Met a guy on our first trip to the island who'd spent his day walking the shoreline of the island. We love the path behind the houses at Punta Sur! We plan to do a lot of walking with a little dog on our next trip!
He's ready. Only challenge is his short legs and furry coat make for short walks - he gets so hot he lays down and won't budge. Fun times! Cheers Lynda
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