Topes – the speed bumps of life in Mexico

Police and raised tope on Rueda Medina in Centro

Topes, the ever-present driving hazards in Mexico, are actually speed bumps designed to modify the Formula-1 habits of local drivers. Topes come in many shapes and sizes. They are annoying. Necessary but annoying.

There are the raised yellow-and-white striped crosswalks, one of the few places in Mexico where pedestrians have the right of way. These are usually near schools or busy areas, such as the original exit from the passenger ferry terminal on Isla Mujeres. These topes are controlled by traffic police using hand gestures and the sharp notes of a whistle to snag the attention of drivers distracted by Smartphones, selfie sticks, or bikini-clad tourists. Afternoons on Rueda Medina can be bedlam with visitors disgorging from tour boats and passenger ferries. The combination of well-marked crosswalks and traffic police reduces the number of close encounters of the painful kind between people and vehicles.

Topes slow the speeders down - a little

Then there are the normal topes, the narrow, recycled-rubber contraptions that are bolted to the pavement. 

These hard bits of latex can give drivers a nice back-shaking jolt when crossing. The good thing about this style of tope is that they are visible even on rainy nights as their distinctive yellow and black stripes are part of the rubber compound, not just painted on the surface. 

Hand-made tope sign on the right

A nasty, unpainted bump is located on the south-western side of the island, near the horse coral, and across the street from the construction site for a new house. Rubber-necking the progress of the new-build is guaranteed to give you a sharp thump of surprise when driving on this stretch of road. I’ve done it so many times, the construction crew cheers when I actually remember to slow down and traverse the tope at a crawl. Driving past the crew this morning, they pointed at a recently installed handmade tope warning sign.  That was good for a chuckle and a photo.

Moto pathway through tope

In that same stretch of road near the never-completed Unik Hotel (Unique) is a series of half-sphere metal bumps.  There is no easy way to cross these teeth-rattling orbs, unless you happen to be riding a moto. 

Someone has thoughtfully removed a bump, one on each side of the road, creating a pathway for a narrow wheel.  

Experienced moto riders give a little hip waggle, dodging to the right and then left, whizzing away.

Our Mini scrapes on this one

There are two extra high topes on the island that cause our low-slung Mini Cooper a bit of navigational difficulty.  One is the muffler-scraping lump in Centro on Matamoros just west of Olivia’s Restaurante. 

With two people and one small dog in the car, it’s a slow crawl for us, taken at a forty-five-degree angle to get over the steep-sided speedbump. When we have friends with us in the car, we don’t drive on that block of Matamoros. The other problem tope for our car is near the bakery in the Salinas Grande neighbourhood.  It’s a slow and noisy scrap over that one as well.

Moto slowing for unmarked and unpainted tope

But our absolute least favourite type of tope is the raised bump in the pavement: black and invisible. The sharp bump will rattle your back teeth if you don’t have all the topes mapped out in your head. These are the sneaky gotchas, where the original yellow cautionary paint has been worn away by vehicle tires and rainstorms. The once visible metal warning signs are typically victims of rust and corrosion, either lying on the ground or missing entirely. The southbound lane of the double-wide Passeo de Aves, near the YZA Farmica, has one of these invisible lumps. No sign.  No paint.  You have to rely on your memory, or not!

Snoozing in paradise

And, there are the warm and fuzzy topes: sleeping dogs. Snoozing on a warm street is a favourite pastime for local pooches.  

Keep your eyes peeled for these guys.  They are just enjoying a nap on their little piece of island paradise. 

Hasta Luego

Lynda, Lawrie, and Sparky

Isla Mujeres Mystery series

Or

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Painted Ladies of Isla Mujeres

Great background for memorable photos

They are the grand old dames of Isla, the painted ladies of Centro, the one-level wooden houses that are scattered throughout the downtown area of the island.  

Built back in the 1920s and 30s, they have survived hurricanes, infestations of wood-eating tropical bugs, and progress. 

La Tablitas Hemingway's different colours

Tablitas or Hemingway's Bar is probably the most photographed of all the buildings. Located on the corner of Matamoros and Guerrero Avenues, it was a favourite local cantina with a noisy mix of people enjoying their afternoon beverages. It is a prime location for wedding photographers to capture a bit of local history and provide a colourful background for a memorable wedding photo. Tablitas closed on Monday, February 29^th, under the previous management.  According to island scuttlebutt, the owner of the building did not renew the operator’s lease and is planning to open a cantina under his management. Hopefully, it will maintain its funky and fun character.

Tony Garcia's auntie owns this pretty building

Another beautifully painted grand old dame is on the corner of Matamoros and Juarez Avenues.  

Built originally by Tony Garcia’s grandfather, Heriberto Delgado de Tejada, father to Guadalupe Delgado Diaz, the house now belongs to his aunt Apolonia Delgado Diaz.  

Painted a cheerful combination of raspberry pink, sunflower yellow, and pale blue, it is an eye-catching resident of the neighbourhood. Recently, the doors facing onto Matamoros Avenue were open, and it appeared that a woman had set up a sewing business. 

Quite close by is another of our favourite painted ladies.  Located on Juarez Avenue, it is divided by two fanciful paint jobs.  

The southern half is bright yellow with blue, red, and white trim, while the northern half is a tropical orange with white trim. 

We don't know if this is two homes or one home and one business. 

Hard to see in the daytime with souvenirs piled everywhere

Most of the other interesting houses are located along the pedestrian-only street where the souvenir sellers are congregated.  

Some contain shops, others are a false front with the entrance located on the main road of Rueda Medina. In the daytime, these buildings are usually hidden under piles of merchandise, and it is difficult to really appreciate their character.  

Silk-screen printing shop

Facing the square near City Hall is a fairly recent addition, La Casa Madera, which has replaced the silk-screen printing shop.  

They have done a beautiful job of restoring the old building, and, judging by the photos on their Facebook page, it is a popular lunch stop for locals and tourists.

We have been told that the old wooden houses are protected from demolition by city bylaws.  The one thing that they can’t be protected from is fire, either accidental or convenient fires.  

Fingers-crossed, the painted ladies will survive for many more years, adding a bit of fun and character to the northern part of the island.

Hasta Luego

Lawrie, Lynda, Sparky, and Thomas the Cat

Isla Mujeres Mystery Series

Or

Death in the Vineyards Mysteries

The Adventures of Thomas and Sparky