Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Pilley's Island, Triton, and Brighton)

July 7th: This is our last day in the charming Ocean Breeze cottage in Springdale, Newfoundland, but I decided that we should go on an iceberg hunt in the nearby coves. The three icebergs that are trapped in Hall's Bay, the narrow inlet where Springdale is located, have drifted too far away for good photos.

On Pilley's Island, Newfoundland

Pilley's Island is about an hour's drive from Springdale and closer to the open ocean. It looks promising.

The Sparkinator and I head off towards the Trans Canada Highway, then take the #380 toward Robert's Arm, and onto Pilley's Island via the causeway. I hunted around in Triton and Brighton, looking for ghostly white shapes. 

Nothing. 

The Bumblebee Bight Inn and Brewery

After a quick stop at the local craft brewery, the Bumblebee Bight Inn and Brewery, to purchase one of their ales, we returned to Springdale for a late lunch at our cottage.

Maybe tomorrow, I'll be successful.

Cheers, Lynda and The Sparkinator 

Brighton Newfoundland

Pathway to the local firepit

Local fisherman setting traps 

Local fisherman setting traps

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Springdale & icebergs!)

July 6th: Happy Birthday to my sis, Val. Wishing you many more celebrations!

Before Sparky and I left Woody Point, I finally stopped in at the Galliott Studios on the waterfront. My friends Berardine and Stewart Cochrane had suggested that I visit while in Woody Point, but for some reason, I had forgotten that they also serve good coffee and goodies. 

Coffee, goodies, pretty things, and dog-friendly!

I popped in for a latte to go and discovered they are also super dog-friendly. Sparky and I could have hung out there every day on the waterfront, drinking coffee and soaking up the local vibe! I really need to ask local establishments more often, "Are you doggie-friendly?" 

More often than not in Newfoundland, the answer is a resounding, "Yes! We love dogs."

The back deck at Galliott's Woody Point

Not a normal iceberg photo

We arrived in Springdale around 1:00 p.m. and were able to check into the Ocean Breezzz Chalet on the waterfront. 

Springdale's population is around 3000. It's on the northwestern shore of Hall's Bay, close to Baie Verte Peninsula, where the icebergs sail silently past. 

Occasionally, the bemouths manage to find a route into Halls's Bay, and some have been known to park themselves in front of the cottage where Sparky and I are staying for two nights. One large icy visitor had just moved from in front of the cottage to the other side of the bay. It will hang around in the bay until it melts.

This one was in front of the cottage yesterday

At my cottage in Springdale, NF

Ocean Breezzz Chalet (yes, the spelling is correct)

Springdale, NF, iceberg across the bay

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Newfoundland, Trout River and a bit of Gros Morne Park)

July 5th: My travel companion was restless this morning, so we took a short drive to the Discovery Centre, at the edge of Gros Morne National Park near Woody Point, Newfoundland. 

The Tablelands Gros Morne National Park

The Discovery Centre has a fascinating display of the geological history of Newfoundland. When I was about 15 years old, I had plans to be a geologist. (One of my teenage dreams in a long line of potential ist-careers, including a paleontologist, archeologist, or marine biologist.) I still pick up interesting rocks wherever I go and take them home. Typically, a year or so later, I look at the rock and wonder where the hell I found that one. I really should label them.

About the time we left the Discovery Centre, the fog lifted, and I decided to continue on for another 17 kilometers to the oceanside fishing community of Trout River. 

Trout River, Newfoundland

This community lists around 500 year-round residents plus a summertime influx of tourists staying in the handful of cottages and B&Bs. 

The Seaside Restaurant in Trout River has a good reputation for delicious seafood. Open for lunch and dinner, I was too early for either. We turned around and headed back to our cozy cottage at Woody Point.

Essentials! Firewood and fishing equipment

Trout River, Newfoundland

Common signs in Newfoundland

I didn't realize until this afternoon how much goes on in the tiny community of Woody Point. Check out this live music event from the July 1st long weekend.

Live Music @ the Merchant Warehouse Retro Cafe & Wine Bar

https://fb.watch/lBnZQWRFgR/

 

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Woody Point Newfoundland)

July 4th: Sparky and  I are in Woody Point, Newfoundland, for three days. It is a sleepy little hamlet of about 300 residents on Bonne Bay, inside the boundaries of the Gros Morne National Park, and it has a very active arts community.

Internet photo Heritage Theatre at Woody Pt

This weekend, July 7th and 8th, is the Comedy Festival. Host Steve Patterson is bringing four wicked comics to the Woody Point Heritage Theatre: Ali Hassan, Ivan Decker, Elvira Kurt, and Bree Parsons. Unfortunately, I will be in Springdale, Newfoundland, by then. 

Then, August 15th to 20th, is the Writers at Woody Point festival. The literary festival began in 2004 and, each year, it has been a sold-out success.

The event will once again be hosted by CBC Radio’s Shelagh Rogers of “The Next Chapter," a show about Canadian writing and writers.

Shuttling passengers to Norris Point

If you want a bit of fresh air but aren't into strenuous hiking in Gros Morne National Park, BonTours will shuttle you across to Norris Point on a boat, to join their boat tour of the inlet and park shoreline.

Or, if you are into outdoorsy activities, the park offers a fabulous assortment of trails and camping sites.

I love that the French name Gros Morne translates to big gloomy place. When you see the fog rolling in and the clouds sliding down the steep mountains, you can understand why it was called Gros Morne.

Most of the funky old buildings on the Woody Point waterfront date from after 1922, when a devastating fire ripped through the downtown. The wind quickly carried the flames across the Bay to Norris Point. In all, 58 buildings were destroyed. The lighthouse, built in 1919, survived the fire.

It's an interesting place to hang out for a few days. I have discovered that a full day of driving in rain and fog takes a lot of energy, and I appreciate a day to relax, rest, and read. 

Cheers, Lynda and The Sparkinator 

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Port aux Basques to Woody Point)

July 3rd: The coastline of Newfoundland is 17,542 kilometers or 10,900 miles long! 

Woody Point, Newfoundland

I have spent the last two months driving across North America and have logged 13,050 km or 8,109 miles, but in comparison, I haven't come close to circumnavigating the coastline of Canada's 10th province. 

Did they teach us this stuff in school? I have no recollection of learning much about Newfoundland, other than it was governed by Britain and didn't join the Dominion of Canada until 1949.

And growing up we heard a variety of 'Newfie' jokes because they 'talked funny.'

https://www.vice.com/en/article/avjxj5/10-newfie-jokes

Mountain range just past Port aux Basques

A Newfie walks into a lumber yard and says, "I's building an 'ouse bye' and needs me some a dat der too be far." The clerk says, "You mean a 2 by 4?"  The Newfie answers, "Yes, bye', dat's da stuff." The clerk asks, "Well, how long do you need it?" The Newfie responds, "Well bye', I's buildin an 'ouse wit it so I's gonna need it for a while." 

So far, I've met hard-working, friendly, kind, funny, cheerful people who are happy to stop and chat and give directions or suggestions. I've been called, sweetheart, honey, darling, and sweetie a dozen times by men and women, and I have only been here 24 hours. People wave as I drive past, or when I'm walking Sparky. 

Same location as the previous photo

Today Sparky and I traveled from Port aux Basques to Woody Point, on Bonne Bay, inside the Gros Morne National Park. On the way we stopped for a visit with folks whom I've chatted with several times via Facebook, about our shared passion, Isla Mujeres Mexico. 

Bernardine and Stewart Cochrane have lived and worked in Newfoundland all their married life. They love their town, Pasadena, and their province. We shared a yummy lunch made by Bernardine and had a fun visit, talking about life on Isla Mujeres and life on Newfoundland. 

I'm loving this place!

Cheers, Lynda and The Sparkinator

On the #431 road towards Woody Point

Woody Point Public Library 

Colorful garbage containers

Fishboat on Bonne Bay waiting to offload catch

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (on to Newfoundland, finally!)

July 1st: We hung out at the hotel in Sydney, and later in the day moved to our next hotel in North Sydney, close to the terminal for the Newfoundland ferry service. That's all that I accomplished on July 1st, Canada Day.

The Big Fiddle, Cape Breton musicians

Remembering the merchant seamen lost during WW2

Sydney Nova Scotia harbour

July 2nd: Finally, our day to cross over to Newfoundland has arrived. Don't get me wrong, our entire trip has been a fun adventure, but I am excited to finally explore the one Canadian province that I have never seen. I made a reservation for a pet-friendly cabin a year ago in anticipation of this trip - and I am very glad that I did. I felt sorry for the pooches who either rode on the top deck, locked in kennels, near the fog horn, or on the car decks, locked in cars with numerous other car alarms sounding when the movements of the ship jostled the vehicles. The weather was foggy and reasonably cool during the crossing, but on hotter days, the pooches in the cars would be hot and stressed. (On BC Ferries, the onboard announcements remind drivers to only lock their vehicles and not set the car alarms to help reduce the stress of the dozens of pets riding in family vehicles.)

One of the ferries on the route between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland

In our pet-friendly cabin, Sparky and I pleasantly passed the seven-hour journey relaxing in the comfortable berths and enjoying a tasty late lunch (the onboard restaurant does takeout). Followed by wine for me, and water for The Sparkinator. The cabin was fitted with a television, a full bathroom including a tiny shower, and a small table with a stool. After eating, we both fell asleep for three hours.  

As we were preparing to dock, I was able to snap a couple of quick photos of Port aux Basques through the window in our cabin, and then the fog closed in again. The weather is supposed to clear in 4 or 5 days from now. In the meantime, my photos are grey and sometimes blurry. 

Cheers, Lynda, and The Sparkinator 

Our pet-friendly cabin

Explaining to Sparky how lucky he is.

Port aux Basques, Newfoundland

Port aux Basques, Newfoundland

Port aux Basques, Newfoundland

Sparky's Epic Adventure Across North America (Ingonish & Fortress Louisbourg Nova Scotia)

June 30th: It was a 'moving on down the road' day. We had an early start when the sounds of seabirds, waves, and fishing boats leaving the harbour in Ingonish, Nova Scotia, woke us at 5:00 a.m.

First, I took Sparky to a nearby beach for his morning sniff and snoop, then we stopped at the Keltic Lodge, on Middlehead. It's an intriguing place visible from my cottage on the other side of the bay. The grand old property is owned and operated by Parks Canada in conjunction with GolfNorth.

Part of Keltic Lodge, Ingonish NS

Part of Keltic Lodge NS

Great place for breakfast! Terrific staff, too.

My next stop was the Main Street Cafe and Bakery. I only intended to purchase a take-out latte until I discovered their patio is doggie-friendly. While I was waiting for my breakfast, four tourists from Ontario sat next to us and started a conversation. My take-out latte turned into two lattes, breakfast, a lot of laughter, and an exchange of contact information. 

Ferry between Jersey Cove & Englishtown, NS

My plan for the day was to drive to Sydney, about a two-hour drive, and hope for an early check-in at the hotel. En route, I happened upon a 3-minute car ferry that runs between Jersey Cove and Englishtown in Cape Breton. 

A gas stop in Boularderie East alerted me to the potential gas shortage in Nova Scotia over the Canada Day long weekend. The government was set to implement a 12-cent per litre (about 50 cents a gallon) price hike, and the stations were running low on fuel. Fortunately, I don't have a lot of driving to do before we board the car ferry to Newfoundland on Sunday, July 2nd. 

It was still much too early to check into the hotel, so I continued driving toward Fortress Louisbourg on the south (I think) coast of Cape Breton. Lawrie and I visited it in September 1986. I was so impressed that I wanted to see it again. 

Except, I couldn't get in. I have my four-legged travel partner, and he is not allowed on the grounds. They said if I left him in the car, someone would frequently check on him. Nope! The weather was cool and foggy, but anytime the fog lifted, the temperature jumped from 18 °C to 28 °C in minutes. I realize it is a common rule for federal parks, etc., however, so many people travel with their pets these days, I think it might be time to rethink that policy. 

Fortress Louisbourg, photo from NS webpage

WIKIPEDIA: The Fortress of Louisbourg (French: Forteresse de Louisbourg) is a tourist attraction as a National Historic Site and the location of a one-quarter partial reconstruction of an 18th-century French fortress at Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. Its two sieges, especially that of 1758, were turning points in the Anglo-French struggle for what today is Canada.

The original settlement was founded in 1713 by settlers from Terre-Neuve and was initially called Havre à l'Anglois. Subsequently, the fishing port grew to become a major commercial port and a strongly defended fortress. The fortifications eventually surrounded the town. The walls were constructed mainly between 1720 and 1740. By the mid-1740s, Louisbourg, named for Louis XIV of France, was one of the most extensive (and expensive) European fortifications constructed in North America.

By 2:00 p.m., we were settled in our hotel in Sydney. 

Cheers, Lynda and The Sparkinator

Poppies at the Keltic Lodge Ingonish