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| Magaña boats January 2006 |
Isla Mujeres, the Island of
Women, is a small island floating in the Caribbean Sea. Boats have always been an integral part of its
history.
Dating back to the 1550s, the
days of the Spanish explorers, and first the settlement on Isla, fishing pangas,
and large sailing ships were the main mode of transportation. Later, as technology advanced, and more people
discovered Isla Mujeres private yachts, passenger ferries, car ferries, and tour
boats became part of the rhythm of island life. So, when the original passenger ferry operators
recently announced that they were suspending service, it signified the end of an
era.
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| Magaña boats out of service May 2016 |
The two passenger ferries are
now tied up at their family wharf in the lagoon, and the employees have received
their final wages. The bigger party boat, the Caribbean Princess, is still plying the waters between the mainland and
Isla, bringing day-trippers from the hotel zone in Cancun, but the regular hourly
departures from Isla and Cancun are finished. A victim of economics and stiff competition from the newer, sleeker UltraMar
flotilla.
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| Larger, newer UltraMar boats the competition |
When we first visited the
island in 2002, the Magaña boats were the only option, and I must admit, even
though I don’t typically suffer from seasickness, riding the Caribbean Miss was
a smelly, stomach-churning experience as the vessel rolled through the waves,
while clouds of smoky diesel fumes infiltrated the passenger area. We gladly switched over to the more stable,
catamaran-style UltraMar service when it became available.
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| Repainted in 2012, nicknamed the Barney-Boats |
Over a period of ten years, the UltraMar has added more and larger ships to its fleet, while the older Magaña
transportation company retained its original vessels. The once familiar white, blue, and red ferry boats
were repainted in 2012 with what was light-heartedly referred to as the
Barney-Boat colours of purple and green. It was an attempt to ‘jazz up’ the image of the aging ships and attract
more customers. Sadly, the new colours
didn’t improve the ride or the service.
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| Sultana del Mar from Recuerdeos de Isla Mujeres |
But the most fascinating ship owned by the Magaña
transportation company is the Sultana del Mar.
We have written about her before, as islanders such as Vivian Reynaldo,
Dan Kane, Abby and Neil Fox, and Captain Javier Velázquez Euan have shared
their personal stories about traveling to Isla Mujeres back in the
day.
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| Mario Burgos Sánchez |
There are more stories about the Sultana del Mar posted
on the Facebook page Recuerdeos de Isla Mujeres. Islander Cuauhtémoc Zufita Landero in
collaboration with our local historian Fidel Villanueva Madrid, has been adding
fascinating narratives about Isla’s past.
A Google translation works fairly well, translating the Spanish to
English, but we still struggle with the finer details of the stories.
Of particular interest to me is the story about
Mario Burgos Sánchez, Carpintero de Ribera, the master carpenter who built the
hull of the Sultana del Mar with ‘good wood, the right tools, and his hands.’
The Sultana del Mar was a
grand old dame that is currently a sinking wreck. Slowly, month by month, she is sliding further
beneath the waves, taking a piece of island history with her.
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| Sultana del Mar , May 2016, L.Lock photo |
It is the end of a simpler
time. A time when life was slower,
unhurried.
Hasta Luego
Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas
