Animas Festival: the Parade of Silence, Dia de Los Muertos

Ghostly brides. Half-faced children. Phantom cowboys.  Gentlemen apparitions in formal wear.  

Ladies in flower bedecked headdresses and jeweled Catrina makeup all gathered in Centro for a relatively new event on Isla Mujeres, the Parade of Silence, paying tribute to the souls of the departed.

Ru Perez Director Casa de la Cultura, on right

Organized by the Casa de la Cultura and the Jean Piaget private school, the procession was scheduled to start at six in the evening at the old cemetery located at the north end of Hidalgo Avenue, culminating at the Casa de la Cultura on Guerrero Avenue.  

Six o’clock Mexican time: más o menos.  In this case, the event was surprisingly not too far off schedule, starting at six-thirty.  

A group from our neighbourhood agreed we would meet downtown, watch the parade, and then go out for a light dinner. 

It should be easy for seven people to meet up on a five-mile-long island…wouldn’t you think?  

However, by the time I had snapped nearly a hundred photographs and the procession had passed us by, we realized that four of our friends had still not arrived.  

We did see several other well-known locals who were enjoying the spectacle, relaxing street-side in the various bars and restaurants that line Hidalgo Avenue.

Lawrie and his sister Linda decided that they would head to The Reef, where the group had planned to pop in for a drink with our favourite island bar-tender, Freddy Medina.

In the meantime, I scouted around Hidalgo Avenue for the others. 

It turns out they waited twenty minutes for a taxi, not wanting to risk the new Breathalyzer sobriety roadblocks that were initiated a week ago.  

For those of you unfamiliar with life in Mexico, drunk driving has been tolerated until very recently. Open liquor in vehicles, on golf carts, or even motos – no problem.  

A few times, we have witnessed motor scooter drivers so bombed that when required to stop for traffic or pedestrian crosswalks, they forget to put their feet on the ground. The result is a comical slow-motion toppling of the driver and the motorcycle into a heap on the hard pavement, in one case conveniently beside a police officer. 

The Breathalyzer sobriety checks are a step in the right direction; however, according to the island coconut-telegraph, the testers are re-using the same plastic ‘straw’ for every person.  It’s a very unsanitary practice, to say the least.  Hopefully, this is just a rumour.

Ashley Blogin

But I digress, Julie, Rob, Brent and Dé were about to start hoofing it into Centro when an available taxi finally arrived.  Having rounded up the strays, we trailed after the procession, heading in the direction of the Municipal Square and The Reef Bar at the south end of Hidalgo Avenue.  

The colourful, but quiet group slowly wound its way between the tables and chairs pushed out into the street by restaurant managers trying to maximize every possible square inch of serving space. 

Hidalgo Avenue has a fun, chaotic atmosphere with cramped spaces, colourful tables and chairs, wait-staff hawking menu choices, and the delicious smells wafting from open-air kitchens.

The Parade of Silence continued a few more blocks, culminating at the Casa de la Cultura.  We turned a sharp left and up the stairs into The Reef for an adult beverage.  We finished up our fun evening with a yummy dinner at Javi’s Cantina on Juarez Avenue.  The beautiful live background music was provided by Jorge and Martine.

  

Jorge with Javi on drums

We are already anticipating the procession of the souls next year.  Sometimes life in paradise is just so darn difficult.

Cheers

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

Julie and Linda G. with their new friend

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Sergio’s Isla Art

Sergio, Tiffany Wareing's photo

He has an irrepressible smile that lights up his weathered face; whether he is teaching batik, painting a mural, or riding his bicycle, he is always smiling. 

Sergio was born sixty-two years ago in Champotoń in the state of Campeche into a family of three sisters and three brothers. His family moved to Isla Mujeres when he was a young boy, and he has lived on the island, on and off, for over fifty years.  When he was a younger man, Sergio worked on several construction projects in the Tulum area. 

Sergio, the Isla Mujeres Art Fair photo

And then there was a seven-year period when he lived twenty-five meters above ground, in a very primitive tree-house.  

When asked by a friend why he lived so high up, he replied with a face-splitting grin. 

“You have to get above the snakes!”  

That’s about eighty-two feet above the ground, a long way down if you roll over in the night, forgetting you are high up in the trees. 

Sergio, photo Ceceila Hart-Hodges

Keenly interested in anything to do with art since he was a small child, Sergio has mastered the Indonesian technique of Rōkézūzūmi batik.   

His gorgeous wall hangings are complex and brightly coloured, depicting Maya themes.  

They can be purchased at the Isla Mujeres Art Fair, which takes place on the first Thursday of every month between November and April. The Art Fair is located at the Casa de Cultura in Centro, on the eastern side of the island near the municipal esplanade.

Sergio, teaching kids at the Casa de Cultura

Sergio has also done several wall murals, the most recent being the Maya goddess IxChel on the house next door to our casa.  

And on Tuesdays and Thursdays, he teaches classes in batik or tie-dying at the Casa de Cultura.  

The information is available on his Facebook page, thanks to John and Valerie Pasnau, who are the energy behind promoting Sergio’s artworks.

Recent students, Danielle, Barbara, and Carol

Here’s the information for art lessons from Sergio:

There are two classes a week, every week, on Tuesday and Thursday.

Start time is 10 am, Gringo time. 
Finish time is when we finish, Mexican time, about three hours.

Fee is 350 pesos plus 50 pesos to cover materials. You will make a batik or tie-dye wall hanging.

Sergio's work - photo Isla Art Fair

Classes are held in the Cultural Center in Centro. The classroom door is in the center courtyard.  

If the front door is closed, walk around to the Caribbean side. The courtyard is open on that side.

We hope you will let us know in advance if you plan to come, but drop-ins are welcome. 

So, either way, get some beautiful art; purchase one of Sergio’s creations, or make your own fabulous wall hanging.  

What a great souvenir of a vacation in paradise.

Hasta Luego

Lynda, Lawrie, and Sparky

Sergio - fascinating mural at John & Valerie's house

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It’s a brand new year in Isla Mujeres, Mexico

Happy New Year - 2016

It’s a brand-new year for us to enjoy, or mess up, or make a dozen soon-to-be-forgotten resolutions such as lose weight, get more exercise, and eat healthier. 

We make the same resolutions year after year, so for 2016, we have only one resolution: no more stupid resolutions!

Life this past year has been busy, not just for us but for the whole island. 

Several large municipal projects were finally completed: the fire hall, a bigger hospital, and the Casa de Cultura.  

New fire hall near the police station

These new facilities are a great addition to everyday life on the island.

Across the street from our house, the seldom-used college basketball court was covered with a metal dome, and seating was added for spectators.  

The improved facility is well used by local teams and school drama presentations.  

Photo Folk Dancers' Congress  

Recently, under the dome, an outdoor catering area was created to feed the two hundred or so folk dancers who performed on the island in the last week of December.  

It was a very well-mannered group comprised of dance troupes from various parts of Mexico.  

They lined up quietly at seven in the morning for breakfast, then again for lunch, plus practiced a few dance routines in the late afternoon.   We hardly knew they were there, except for the enticing aromas wafting across the street, exciting our taste buds. 

Playa Norte

On a grander scale, tourism is up, way up, with an estimated two million visitors coming to enjoy the island's amenities and our annual festivals: Island Time Music and Fishing Festival, the summer Whale Shark Festival, and the Caribbean Culture Festival. 

Two of the most popular beaches on the island, Playa Norte and Playa Centro, have been designated as world-class Blue Flag beaches. Those beaches must be maintained to a higher standard of cleanliness, with toilets available, and garbage and animal poop cleaned up daily. Music, food, entertainment, combined with sun, sand, and surf!  It doesn’t get much better than that.

Carnaval

Separate from the “created” celebrations the Mexican culture has several annual events that are always interesting, such as Carnaval in February or March, Santa Semana Holy Week (Easter) in March or April depending on the Catholic Church calendar, The Flowery Cross celebration in May, Independence Day in mid-September, Day of the Dead celebrations late October and into early November, and Revolution Day parade in mid-November. 

Kindergarten parade - Independence Day 

By that time, we are at the end of the year and the calendar has rolled around into Christmas celebrations, with parades, parties, and processions.  

So, we are off to a great start with the New Year.  Happy, healthy, enjoying life, and resolution-free for 2016! 

Happy New Year / Próspero Año Nuevo

Lawrie & Lynda, Thomas the Cat, Sparky, & Perla

Happy New Year from all of us! 

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A witches’ brew of traditions: Mayan Hanal Pixán, Día de Los Muertos, and Halloween

Pink-haired rock stars and pretty devils

It’s the time of year when devils, skeletal Catrinas, pink-haired rock stars and hobgoblins make an appearance in a witches’ brew of celebrations and traditions; the Mexican Día de Los Muertos, combined with our North American Halloween, and the very spiritual Mayan celebration of Hanal Pixán.   

It’s a fascinating time of year to be in Mexico.

Recent breakfast at the Naval Officers' Club

October is also when the current Navy Commodore’s wife hosts the annual costume-party breakfast at the Officers’ Club on Medina Avenue.  Doña Olivia, along with her right-hand person, Susana Olvera, did an outstanding job this year.  

The monthly breakfast event is an important fundraiser that helps purchase equipment and furnishings for the Navy hospital on Isla Mujeres.  

Minnie Mouse

It’s a fun time to visit with seldom-seen friends and make new acquaintances. Then breakfast is served, raffle prizes drawn, and sometimes a version of flash-card bingo is played. The Gringa population informally refers to the event as The Navy Wives’ Breakfast because the longer Spanish name is a mouthful of difficult consonants and unfamiliar words. 

This year, Minnie Mouse put in an appearance at the costume party. Wearing oversized yellow shoes, she stumbled her way to the door. Peering through eye-holes in the giant head, she was greeted by scary hunchbacks, devils, and the Scream Ghostface man. The room was jammed.   Everyone participated in the crazy fun by wearing costumes and disguises. A huge amount of effort had gone into the decorations, with black and orange balloons, tablecloths, napkins, Halloween-themed food, and a pumpkin-faced cake.

Mariachi band - ten musicians

There was a short video presentation showing the items at the hospital purchased in the past year through the women's fundraising efforts.  

Then a ten-person mariachi band played some great tunes, and the door prizes were drawn.  

At our table of fourteen women, islander Gail Stewart was the lucky one to win a prize. 

Our table at breakfast.

If any of your island friends ask if you would like to go to the Navy Wives’ Breakfast, say Si! You will have a fun time and contribute to the island.  

Sue McDonald Lo is a great source for information and tickets. 

Minnie Mouse is already planning her costume for next October!

As for the rest of the witches’ brew of traditions, the city is hosting several events to draw visitors into the local celebrations.  

Friday, October 30^th, is the Paseo de las Ánimas – the Parade of the Souls, starting around 6:00 in the evening at the older cemetery in Centro and finishing at the recently completed Casa de la Cultura – Cultural Center. 
 

Altars - Photo Naranja Dulce

On Saturday, October 31^st, in the square at city hall, there will be a mix of traditions: the judging of Halloween-style costumes for children, and the building of beautiful altars for the Mayan Hanal Pixán celebrations.  

The altars are traditionally decorated with candles, candy skulls, bright yellow Marigold petals, favourite foods and photographs of the deceased's loved ones.  The Municipality of Isla Mujeres has, until recently, been very low-key on this important celebration, preferring to let the families privately honour their deceased loved ones. 

San Miguel de Allende

I have mixed feelings about making it a public event. In San Miguel de Allende, closer to Mexico City, the amazing altars, offerings, and decorations are a huge tourist draw. We were there, accidentally, in 2008; the sight is breathtakingly beautiful. 

Yet a part of me thinks this should remain a private family event, not a tourist attraction. Still, it is a fascinating time of the year to be in Mexico. 

Cheers from paradise!

Lynda, Lawrie, Sparky, and Thomas

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Scary and beautiful, the art of Emilio Sosa Medina

Tucked into a small space near the corner of Avenida Hidalgo and Avenida López Mateos sits an unassuming little store, Artesanías Glenssy.  

This store has intrigued me for quite some time.  The walls are hung with brilliantly coloured, very scary creatures.  Does this man have nightmares?  I wondered: Nightmares that he transforms into vivid three-dimensional sculptures?  

I’m certain the two-headed creature with three rows of pointy teeth and a bright yellow tongue was the main villain in one of the Alien movies!

In an attempt to protect his intellectual property to prevent other artists from copying his ideas, the artist has posted many signs in his store: no photographs. I am a camera buff.  Photographs help me write about things that interest me, so I decided to approach the artist and see if he would be willing to chat and be photographed.  As it turns out, he is quite fluent in English, which is a good thing, as I am still struggling with Spanglish.

His name is Emilio Sosa Medina, and he was born in Yobain, Yucatan, in 1955. 

A political activist since he was a teenager, Emilio left his hometown in 1974, moving to Isla Mujeres, where he met an island woman who took him under her wing, helping him find work.  

He first worked as a kitchen assistant and then as a bartender, but continued to yearn for a creative outlet for his energies.

In 1986, Emilio took lessons at the local Casa de la Cultura to learn papier-maché techniques, and he became entranced by the possibilities. Using up to 40 kilos (87 pounds) of newsprint for some of his larger sculptures, Emilio creates supernatural beings from Maya mythology plus his own fantastic monsters. His imagination is astounding. 

Crafting each intricate piece is a painstakingly slow process. The piece he is currently working on will take up to three years to complete.  

Layer upon layer of newsprint is carefully formed over a wire frame and left for several days to dry naturally in the warm Caribbean climate.  Several coats of vivid acrylics followed by a final glaze of clear polymer resin give the grey papier-maché vibrancy and character.   

Content to live simply with his three children and four grandchildren nearby, Emilio is blazing a new trail in folk art.  Even though Mexican mask folk-art has been in existence for thousands of years, and was a well-established part of life when the Spanish arrived, Emilio brings new life to the art form.  

His one-of-a-kind pieces enhance interior spaces in homes on Isla Mujeres and around the world. 

Hasta luego

Lynda, Lawrie, Thomas, Sparky, and Chica

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