Colourful and chaotic! |
Yesterday was hair day! My favourite stylist Amaranta Ancona Cervera plus her son, baby daughter, and hubby had recently moved to Izamal, an old colonial city near Mérida.
She was back on the island for a quick visit and offered to cut and colour my fading, curly mess. I walked two blocks south, towards her abuelo and abuela’s casa, for my appointment.
Katy's Isla Retreats |
Walking to their
house I passed Katy Hochmayr’s Isla Retreats, Dental Splash, Francisco’s Tapiceria
Isla Mujeres (upholstery), the office of the
orthopedic surgeon Doctor Jorge Ávila Barbosa, Karen Davis’
Hacienda B&B, Coco Jaguar Restaurant, La Chatita Restaurant, Delfino’s Clínica
Veterinaria, Orlando’s golf cart repair service, my favourite fruit and veggie
store owned by the Rivera-Lizama family, and the nighttime barbeque take-out
place.
Locals who saw me walking past, waved, shouted a greeting in Spanish, or
stopped to give me a hug and a kiss on the cheek. I love living in this friendly
culture.
Clínica Veterinaria |
Somewhere in this same
block are a couple of butchers; one the specializes in pork, the other in fresh
chickens.
A little further on is a laundry service, a tortilla bakery, and
multiple tiny stores that offer primarily snacks and beverages. The smells of
soap, baking tortillas, and fresh produce are a tantalizing mix.
This neighbourhood is called Salina Chica,
and it is crammed with small homes and even smaller businesses. For the most
part these stores are around 10 feet by 10 feet in size, and stacked floor to
ceiling with an eclectic mix of goods.
Rivera-Lizama family store |
Most of the businesses have owners’
residences or additional rental units attached either in the back or above the tienda. Their minuscule yards frequently contain noisy roosters and clucky
hens, or an assortment of cats and dogs.
In this neighbourhood people
walk a few doors to buy their bread, tomatoes, onions, peppers, or tortillas
from friends. Items are sold in small quantities to help people who have a
limited amount of cash. We once saw a cute little girl buying one disposable diaper
for her baby sister.
Isla Brewing - red building. Too far away for Sparky! |
Walking in the Mexican
colonias is nostalgic for me. The neighbourhood reminds me of the European
towns that Lawrie and I loved to explore, where everything was available within
a few blocks. Now, if Isla Brewing was located in this area, life would be
perfect, but alas it is further south necessitating a short golf cart ride.
Sure, I could easily manage the three blocks there and back but my almost-famous pooch Sparky would be severely
displeased. In his world, he is to be included whenever possible. However,
there are a number of dogs that live in and wander freely through this area. Some
are noisy barkers or heel bitters. Some can be quite aggressive to a strange
dog. And all of them are jealous of his star-status. Sparky prefers to ride in
comfort and grin cheekily at the other dogs who don’t have their own personal
golf cart and driver.
Karen's La Hacienda B&B |
On my way to get my hair fixed, I stopped at
the Sayer paint store to buy a small container of patching compound to fill in a
couple of dings in the walls. Short, strong guys moving heavy furniture don’t
always see when a table leg is about to connect with the plaster wall. Then with my
purchase in hand I continued along the street to Casa Wandy.
At the top of the
stairs I was greeted by a cute little guy who looked about seven-years-old. He was
tasked with watching for the gringa, to make sure she wouldn’t get lost
trying to find Amaranta’s temporary location. Island friend Katie Cain was
ahead of me, getting purdy, before her trip back to the US to visit
family. Katie and I gossiped as Amaranta completed the assortment of nasty
smelling, unattractive processes that women, and some men, suffer through on a
regular basis. I was grateful that I knew Katie well enough to relax and forget
how ridiculous I looked with my hair poking up in gloopy tufts.
More colour! |
While we were yakking,
Amaranta reminded us that we should be conversing in Spanish to practice our
language skills. I agreed, but also admitted that when I see a gringa's
face, my brain can only remember English words. It’s a problem. I try to learn
new words, and torture my Spanish-speaking friends with my mangled pronunciation
but frequently a few days later the words have leaked out of my brain. When I
was a high school student in Canada, French was mandatory because Canada is
officially a bilingual country. However, after five years of studying I
was no more fluent with French than I am now with my meager Spanish. It is what
it is. I keep learning, and I keep forgetting.
Ninety minutes later
I retraced my steps. When I arrived home, Sparky gave me a good sniff, checking
for clues as to where I had been. With his terrific nose, I am certain he could
have listed in sequential order all of the places that I walked past.
~
1 comment:
John and I love living the Isla life through your stories! Hola!
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